Italy Archives - The Bright Eyed Explorer

2 weeks in Italy: A guide to seeing Northern & Central Italy

February 18, 2020October 28, 20222 Weeks in Italy, Adventure, Bologna, Carry on luggage, Carry on only, Cinque Terre, Europe, Florence, Food, Historical sites, History, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Rome, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel, Venice admin

Have 2 weeks in Italy and not sure where to travel aside from Rome and Florence?

Here is my itinerary in full from my recent trip to Northern & Central Italy. It includes some handy information, advice on how many days to spend in each place, how to get to and from places, where to stay in cities and also links to reviews of accommodation and tours.

The Aussie/Italian connection – The history nerd in me had to go there!

Read on if history is not your thing.

Italy has always held a great interest to me as a traveller. I mean come on, all that food, that wine, all that history and culture! What’s not to love about Italy? For Australians, the Italian connection is huge and it is never more apparent than in Melbourne (where I live).

Here’s why:

After World War 2 ended the suffering caused by war and the widening economic gulf between the classes provided a need for many Italians to seek a better life elsewhere. The Italian government of the 1950s and 1960s, struggling to feed, house and find employment for its citizens, actively promoted migration to Australia (and other countries). At the same time, Australia was embarking on an industrialisation and population program which would open the door to mass migration.

In the 1950s Italian migration to Australia was at its peak. Between July 1947 and 1950 over 33,000 Italians migrated to Australia. The following decade saw the arrival of over 170,000 Italians with the majority of migrants settling in the inner suburbs of Melbourne and Sydney.

From Italian migration, Melbourne grew its reputation of being one of the most respected foodie towns in the world. With Carlton’s Lygon Street being one of the most famous Italian streets outside of Italy. People come from all over to have a taste of our mixed heritage twist on Nona’s famous recipes. But It wasn’t just food that the Italian’s brought with them. There was the coffee, wine, culture, art and history. Something that Melbourne and Australia is undoubtedly indebted to.

It also gave us all new friends. New families. New ways of living.

So, it was inevitable that someday, I was getting on a plane to visit the original home of so many Australians.

My Itinerary at a glance

Venice	2 days
Bologna	2 days
Cinque Terre	2 days
Florence	6 days
Rome	4 days

This included travel to and from places (all up about a day of travelling via train)

My Itinerary in depth

I started my 2 weeks in Italy in Venice after catching the train from Salzburg, Austria. Weirdly, you really do get a sense of being in another country as soon as you cross the border into Italy. Gone is the order and beauty of Austria, in its place is what feels like a sense of franticness, things are just a little more chaotic and messier. It’s not a bad thing, in fact therein lies a beauty in what appears chaotic. Its charming, it is quaint, often loud and proud yet it is a reflection upon the people of Italy. Kind of reminded me of a few of my Italian/Australian friends back home

VENICE

Instantly upon arrival in Venice I was in love. And lost. You step out of the train station to a crowd of people, mostly tourists, some local. That is Venice in the warmer months, busy! And then there is working out where the hell you are. I used Google Maps all the time and it worked ok but still I managed to get lost. I stayed in the Cannaregio area of Venice for two nights.

At the time, while I absolutely loved the first day and really did appreciate Venice’s charm, by day two I was ready to move on. Unfortunately, I was there on Italy’s Liberation Day which coincidently had also fallen on the same day as Venice’s saint day, St Marks Day. In Hindsight now that I am home, I wish I had of stayed longer. But more on that later.

You can read more about my Venice experience here:

BOLOGNA

From Venice I ventured on to Bologna via train. My apartment was 10 minutes by foot in the university district; a 5-minute walk to Centro Storico. You don’t hear much about Bologna in Australia. That is until you start researching. As soon as you google ‘food’ and ‘Italy’ Bologna is the common denominator. Bologna for me would be all about food. Well pasta. In particular ‘Ragu Tagliatelle’ or as Aussies like to call it ‘Spag Bol’. I ate it, a lot.

I really liked Bologna. Tourists were outweighed by locals by a long mile, and that was a much-needed change after being in Venice. The food was outstanding, the locals were super friendly and the Centro Storico was truly beautiful.

You can find out more of my foodie experience in Bologna here:

CINQUE TERRE

From Bologna I was off to the Cinque Terre. Getting there took 3 train trips over the space of quite a few hours (including train delays). The train takes you from Bologna to Florence to Pisa to La Spezia to the Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre is 5 (Cinque) towns (Terre = lands in Italian) on the west coast of Italy. Not too far from Florence, if you have a car. Close to Pisa if you want to see the leaning tower. The 5 towns are cut into the cliff face and are just exquisite. They’re small, quaint and colourful.

The first night I stayed in Monterosso, which is the flattest of the 5 towns. Located at the northern end of the Cinque Terre, it is the only one of the 5 towns to have a beach. The second night I stayed in Riomaggiore, which is the southern end of the Cinque Terre, or the closest to Pisa. Both towns were equally as beautiful as the other. While I was in the Cinque Terre, I also travelled through the other towns Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola, albeit briefly as I only had 2 days there.

I loved the Cinque Terre. For a place that is touristy, it is also very lovely. Once the day tourists leave, the 5 town’s charm really comes to life. I did a fair bit of shopping, eating and drinking. The locals are next level lovely and welcoming making for an all-round great experience.

You can learn more about my Cinque Terre experience here:

FLORENCE

I have ALWAYS wanted to visit Florence. It for me was like Paris, a city of immense history, brilliant art and amazing culture. SO MUCH MEDICI!!! Rather than stay for a couple of days, I chose to stay for a week. Taking up home in an apartment for 4 nights on one side of the River Arno and 2 nights in the more touristy area. I wanted a base to call home for a while, to wash clothes, cook food and immerse myself in day to day life.

Again, I ate & drank to excess but shopped as much as I ate. Florence is after all known worldwide for its fashion and notably its leather, of which I was a few hundred euro less for! Florence’s beauty lies in Florence itself. The majesty of it all, the buildings, the art that lines the streets, the river Arno, the hills and mountains surrounding the city, and the famed Tuscan wineries only a short distance away. Literally everywhere I turned, I was in travel love all over again! Florence really had everything to offer and let me tell you, it sure did on so many levels.

You can read more about my Florence experience here:

ROME

It was hard to leave Florence, but Rome was looming like this beating heart that would not quieten down. Part of me was scared of Rome and the other part was probably too excited. So yes, I was anxious. I arrived in Rome only to find that my apartment was literally a 10-minute walk from the Colosseum. Winning!

Rome = history. And that is what I got a huge dose of in the 4 days that I was there. 4 days was not nearly enough but knowing I had the southern parts of Italy to explore I knew that I’d eventually be back to explore more.

For a huge city, I loved Rome! It literally blew my mind. The Colosseum, the Forum, Palatine Hill, Pantheon, and the Vatican. And getting lost. So amazingly lost, but what an experience it was to be able to ‘roam’ around Rome (yes ok!! Total Dad joke). There is so much more that I didn’t get to see and at times Rome was so overwhelming just because there is so much, but I will definitely go back. After all, I do want to see the Colosseum again.

Read more about my amazing Rome experiences by following these two stories: ‘An overview of getting lost amongst ancient history’ and ‘4 days in Rome: challenge accepted’

My advice – what I’d do differently

Stay longer!

Honestly, unless you are going to stay in just 2-3 cities with a few day trips 2 weeks in Italy does not give you a lot of time to explore and I only did Northern & Central Italy. And that was not enough

But if you are short on time, here is my advice:

Venice – Instead of 2 days, make it at least 3 and travel out to the islands of Burano and Murano. Something I wish I had the time to do but didn’t. And maybe don’t go when there is a public holiday and saint day all in one. Venice is busy enough.

Bologna – I was happy with my 2 days in Bologna; however, I could have allocated more time to Venice and Cinque Terre. So, with that in mind a good idea would be to base yourself in Florence and do day trips if you are short on time, but don’t not go. It is a fabulous city.

Cinque Terre – I could have stayed here a week. It was that relaxing, beautiful and just downright lovely. It is expensive though so if you are on a budget, I would recommend 3 – 4 days in the Cinque Terre. Pick one of the towns to stay in and move around the 5 towns by train. They run quite frequently.

Florence – This is personal choice. While I did 6 days in Florence you can afford to do 3 – 5 days and still see a lot. There really is so much to see and do in Florence. Remember if you are into wine, the Tuscany tours generally take up a day.

Rome – How long is a piece of string? I mean you could spend 4 days like I did and still enjoy yourself and see a lot of historical sites. But it is nowhere near enough time to immerse yourself into all that is Rome. It is a hectic city and that may not float your boat. I would recommend 4 – 6 days. And, whatever you missed out on or want to see again, simply go back some other time.

My conclusion on 2 weeks in Italy

Just go!

While Italy is a path well-worn Italy certainly is never boring!

And the food and wine is BEYOND exceptional.

There is just so much to experience so chances are your experience will be different to the next persons. It is not just all that fabulous food and wine, history, art and architecture that set’s Italy apart, I think their way of life is something that the rest of us could (and should) get accustomed to. Also, Italian’s have this unique way of making your stay special thanks to their sense of hospitality. Adopt an Italian friend on your stay and you’ll be so well looked after. And fed.

Accommodation reviews:

Florence Apartment The Bright Eyed Explorer

Tour reviews:

How Italy changed me

February 18, 2020October 28, 20222 Weeks in Italy, Adventure, Europe, Finding yourself travel, Inspirational Travel, Italy, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel admin 1 Comment

A story of homesickness, tackling grief and learning to finally love who I am, all while being alone and 15,000 kms from home!

Oh Italy, you changed me! This one is a little emotional……

At the time of visiting Italy, I was quite homesick and just felt this weird sense of unease.

Don’t get me wrong. I did have a fabulous time. Italy was all and more of what I expected. All that fabulous food and wine, the people, the history, the art. All of it so special. So amazing. But there was just something that didn’t sit right for me.

I knew it wasn’t Italy. I knew it wasn’t being on holiday (um the alternative was being back at work – hell no). But I just knew that I was off. Something wasn’t right and I couldn’t figure it out. For a moment there I was worried that I was over doing all this travel thing. Ah of all the dumb things that came to my mind.

It wasn’t until a very close friend from home called me when I was in Florence (she was concerned about my lacklustre replies to her check in messages) that we nutted out my problem.

I missed my mum.

My Italian adventure happened to be my first European trip since my darling mum passed away 15 months prior. Sure, I had gone on other holidays since she passed, but this was my first one to Europe. Usually when I go to Europe, I would check in with her every day. Often calling or FaceTime’ing each other so I could hear her news and tell her about all the exciting things I had seen or done over the last day or so.

Mum was always super interested and keen to know everything I was up to. She would be entertained by my mishaps, interested in my adventures, wanted to know all about the local food and wine and in general, how I was getting along. Almost every call she’d giggle and then ask if I’d met any ‘nice men’. I think she was always far more interested in my adventures than anyone else I know.

Mum had never travelled overseas and thought I was a little crazy having this need to travel every six months. She was often worried about me travelling by myself, but trusted me enough to know I would take care of myself. I like to think by doing so she got to see a little bit of the world through my eyes. Looking at it that way, I have taken her to Indonesia, Norway, Denmark, France, Belgium, Spain, Switzerland, Ireland, UK and Thailand. She was mostly impressed by Paris!

I missed out on all of that this trip and it just did not sit well with me. I felt like I was a pressure cooker ready to explode. Worst though was that I found myself not enjoying my time in Italy as much as I thought I would and then became quite annoyed with myself for doing so. Ahhhh what a mess!

Luckily, that all changed when I could identify what this nagging feeling was (thanks Danielle!). And by doing so I gave myself the chance to work through it. Finally after months of denying myself the chance to feel my grief. I was alone, I didn’t have to hide it from anyone. I could let it all out. And Boy did I let it out! I won’t lie, it was bloody tough. Let me tell you there is nothing like having an emotional breakdown when you’re in a foreign country and SUPPOSED to be having the time of your life to really make you question where you are at in life! What a mess.

But you know what, I somehow I managed to make some clarity of it all and the heart heaviness I was feeling was just a little bit less. I knew I had to make the best this situation so on I went out onto the busy streets of Florence and Rome and enjoyed what time I had left in Italy with the appreciation of being strong enough to have worked through some pretty tough shit. Knowing that mum was always happiest when her children were happy gave me a choice of either choosing the path of letting grief beat me down or carrying on with her love and happiness in my heart.

The sadness of losing my mum will always be there. I am forever a changed woman without having her presence in my life. I am just learning to deal with the grief a little better and know that I need to keep living my best life. For her. For me.

Rome Pantheon — *Living my best life in Italy*

Rome Trevi Fountain — *Living my best life in Italy*

So, for me Italy was a trip of growth (not just the pasta fuelled waistline kind of growth), learning, actually dealing with my grief (instead of hiding or not acknowledging it) and becoming so much stronger and resilient than I ever thought I could be. A chip off the old block really (Aussie slang for meaning that a child is just like one of their parents in character or behaviour). The fire and passion was back in my belly and i’ll be damed if this 40 something year old independent woman wasn’t going to continue to go out and experience the best of life.

What I also took from my trip to Italy was just how much I love the freedom of travel. How much I love getting on a plane and experiencing new places. That I am fortunate enough to be able to have these experiences is never lost on me. I learnt that I really do love throwing myself in the deep end when it comes to travel and feeling, seeing, doing as much as I can. I relearned how much I love being an independent woman with choices. But (and it is a huge BUT) most importantly, after 42 long years, I FINALLY learnt that I am pretty comfortable with who I am and that I love being me.

In the end Italy really grew on me. So much so that I actually found myself not wanting to go home. I will be forever grateful to such a fabulous country for giving me the time and space to let myself have those moments for I feel like I have changed and am better for having had the experience.

I am also really grateful for all the pasta. And the Wine. And the Pizza and gelato and…….

So, thank you Italy. I didn’t know I needed you as much as I did. You’re like a wise old Nona, dishing out the hard love and life experiences, while at the same time loving, nurturing, caring and shoving good food in the faces of those who need your love.

Mangia bene, ridi spesso, ama molto xx

It is the two year anniversary of my mother’s passing from Ovarian Cancer today (19th February). Ovarian Cancer is one of those cancers with a high death rate cancers and limited funding for research. A matter VERY close to mine and my family’s hearts is making donations for research into early detection tests and lifting the survival rate. If you would like to donate to the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation (OCRF) you can do so here.

To find out more about my experience at Kata Tjuta and my connection to my mum, read: ‘Finding peace and connection in the middle of Australia’

4 days in Rome: challenge accepted

February 2, 2020October 28, 2022Europe, Food, Historical sites, History, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Rome, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel admin

If you’re short on time, 4 days in Rome can be enough to see some of the major sites and also give you some time to relax and people watch.

When planning my stay in Rome while I was mindful that it was the last stop on a busy 3-week European trip, I wasn’t sure when I’d be back so I needed to pack in as much as I could. I only had 4 days in Rome, I know, I know, not nearly enough time! With that in mind I basically hit the ground running after checking in at my Airbnb.

Coming from Florence (Click on the link to find out about my 6 days in Florence experience) via fast train, it was an easy (and safe) 10-minute stroll from Roma Termini to my apartment which was located in the Monti area. I chose this area simply because it was within walking distance to the Colosseum, the Forum & Palatine Hill, the main reason for my stop in Rome.

Also, I’d heard it was filled with great bars, awesome food, cobblestoned streets, vintage stores and a mix of younger and older people. That is what I am always looking for. Immersion into local life is how I like to travel. Monti, is a bit off the tourist path as far as accommodation goes and that is something that really does appeal to me.

My Advice

With planning accommodation in Rome, is that it is really important to get a place that is close enough to the sights you want to see and what you want to do. There are much more touristy places where hotels and apartments tend to be more on the high-price side of accommodation. If you can afford it do it. You’ll save yourself some money from not having to catch taxi’s everywhere.

But if you are like me and conscious of what you’re spending then an area slightly off the tourist path could save you a lot of money AND get you fit at the same time. In saying though, the train system in Rome is really good so base yourself close to a station and you’ll be right.

As a whole, my advice to anyone going to Rome for the first time and if you have a limited amount of time, is:

Plan ahead! Plan your days, plan what you’ll be seeing and how you are getting to and from places.
Book your tours before you go to skip the lines (because they can get quite massive).
Research places to eat and drink too.

Normally I like to not plan as much except for a few tours, I am more of a go with the flow kind of person. But I knew that I would miss out on too much if I didn’t make some serious plans. And there were times where I stuffed up big time and wasted a whole afternoon getting lost. But at least I saw some amazing sites along the way.

For my 4 days in Rome experience, I planned:

Day one

A get myself acquainted with the Monti area kind of day.

Day two

Straight on tour to the magnificent Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. The tour took approximately 4 hours so afterwards I took myself out for a drink and meal.

This tour was absolutely brilliant and you can read my review here ***.

Day three

An early start to tour Vatican City (you can read my review here) and a walk back to Monti seeing the following on my way home:

Piazza Navona
Campo de’Fiori
Pantheon
Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Trevi Fountain
Spanish Steps

It was a LONG day! I think I was up at 5.30am to be at the Vatican at 7am. I am calling it my ‘cram in as much of Rome as possible’ day! I was on my feet all day stopping only in Piazza Navona for lunch for a delicious pizza and for Gelati in a piazza not far from Monti on my way home. I think I clocked up over 20,000 steps on my Fitbit that day and slept like a baby once I finally got back to my apartment.

Day four

I just had a day of relaxing, washing clothes, packing & tidying up my Airbnb, strolling around the back streets of Monti, and eating out.

Ideally, I would have liked to have had a week in Rome, and really that wouldn’t be enough to see everything. But honestly, how much time is enough time in a city like Rome?

Unless you live in a city or can afford to spend a lot of time in one, can you ever really see everything? I know there was a lot that I missed, but with only 4 days in Rome, I think what I did was enough and afforded me time to spend strolling around and taking some time out to people watch.

There is a lot to be said about cramming as much in as possible in a holiday, but I am simply not that kind of traveller. Sitting in a bar talking to locals made me happier than some of what I did on day 4 of this trip. I mean, you can’t get that kind of experience ticking historical sights of a list. Yes, I could have done more, but knowing I’d be back some day, I did the basics and made a list of things to see and do next time. Some of which, the colosseum mainly, I will do again.

Hope my itinerary helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments section below.

Rome, Italy: An overview of getting lost amongst ancient history

January 28, 2020October 28, 2022Adventure, Europe, Food, Historical sites, History, Italy, Leisure, Rome, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel admin

Ah. Rome Italy.

Well I am not sure how this piece is going to go because I am still a little lost for words! Which for those who personally know me, that is kind of really surprising.

Rome kind of has that effect on you.

So much has been written already about Rome, but here is, my take on the ‘Eternal City’

Rome is such a contrast of old and new. Mostly old and for any Australian traveller who loves historical sites, we are like the fat kid in the candy store. I mean our ’oldest’’ building was constructed in 1793!!! Bless our young hearts.

There is literally so much to see and do in Rome and I really don’t know how long is enough time to say you’ve ’done Rome’. I know I missed a lot. Like I didn’t even get to Trastevere which was on my list of must sees. In all honesty, I simply ran out of time and was pretty determined to get in a ‘live like a local, relaxed day in Rome before my 22 hours of flying home.

I will start by saying, I am no history professor, yes, I know a bit BUT what I know is limited. I simply enjoy seeing the historical relics and learning about the history of the country in which I am visiting. I am a bit of a nerd like that! But I really do think that if you travel to a place its respectful to know what has happened there in the past. However long that past may be. Rome’s is long! Plus, I feel you’re doing yourself a disservice not knowing where a country, city or town has come from and what makes it what it is. But that’s me, who am I to judge…….

So, Rome. Oh Rome! All roads lead to Rome. Rome if you want to.. ok I’ll stop now 😉

A history that is diverse and long. Rome is fucking ’ancient’. There, I said it! If it is something you care for, Rome was around before Jesus. Home to numerous Gods and Goddesses and the mighty Roman Empire that conquered most of Europe. It is a city with so much. So much food, so much of Italy, so much of fashion, wine and culture. And most importantly, so much history! History that we know of, and so much that we don’t.

And it is at that last point that I found myself on so many occasions walking around and coming across a ruin of some kind where my mind would wonder. Who was here? What did they do? Was it a goddess who was desired? A god who was loved or feared? A gladiator? A criminal? What happened here?

Rome is a place of historical fact. But it is also a place where your imagination can really come alive. Mine certainly did.

On this trip, I didn’t want to see modern Rome. I’ll leave that for another time. Being in Rome for 4 days meant a lot of ‘roaming’ around and experiencing the city as I wanted to. With what was important for me.

The views and sights

I got lost a lot in Rome. Very easy to do. But getting lost became a massive highlight for me but one in particular was turning off a small cobblestoned street onto a main road (about 2 minutes from my apartment) and seeing the Colosseum. Right there at the end of the main road standing there in all its ancient glory. All an estimated ten-minute walk from where I was. Unbelievable!

The sights in general across Rome are incredible. Taking in centuries of architecture, art and culture. Rome changes from the ancient to the middle ages to modern times at a quick walking pace. Like one minute you’re walking past a building from the last century and then up pops the ruins of what would have been something impressive 2000 years ago. Unbelievable!

Then there’s something like the Pantheon. Which you turn a corner from a side street with buildings that are only (oh dear) a few centuries old and there it is! Just standing there.

And then there’s the Roman Forum. The Spanish Steps. The Knights of the Malta Keyhole. The Gladiator School. The Baths of CaraCalla. The list goes on. And on.

It would be remiss of me to not mention the Vatican. It’s Saint Peter’s Basilica. It’s museums. SO MUCH HISTORY! SO MANY STORIES!

For all parts, Rome and its sights and history really blew this Aussie mind.

On getting lost in Rome

Boy did I get lost!

Thought I’d nailed this getting lost business on day one with a very easy stroll from the train station to my Airbnb. 1 hour later after unpacking and getting settled I venture out to find the local supermarket and got lost on the way. Actually, pretty much as soon as I walked out of the apartment and turned down the street I was lost. Not a great start! I laughed at myself after discovering on the way home from the supermarket, that it should have been a 5-minute walk to get there, took me an hour.

I got so lost on my Vatican City ‘cram in as much of Rome as possible’ day. Several times. Actually, every time I turned a corner!! If you are someone like me who has subpar navigation skills then it is VERY easy to get lost in Rome. But that is half the fun of exploring isn’t it? In my getting lost experience I was able to see things off the tourist trail and immerse myself more so into Roman life.

Like I said earlier, Rome really blew my mind. It is actually hard to articulate the immense power that this city emanates and the impression that it leaves on you. It is impressive. It is powerful. It actually is a wonderful city, filled with so much that at times it is overwhelming. The food (well all of Italian food really), the wine (again, all of Italian wine), the people, even the tourists make for an experience that is something of wonder and amazement.

I will definitely go back to Rome. There is so much I didn’t get to see in my 4 days, more experiences to have. I really want to go back to the colosseum. I really want to spend a whole day at the Vatican. I really want to go to places I didn’t get to. And I really want to eat the food, drink the wine and chat more to the locals.

This Roman story is not over! I will see you again sometime soon Rome.

Stay tuned for more Rome stories over the next few weeks.

Check out the review of the apartment I stayed in while in Rome HERE

6 nights in Florence – how to live and chill like a local

January 5, 2020October 28, 2022Adventure, Europe, Florence, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel admin

Florence had been on my mind as a must go to place for far too many years. After all, being a bit of a history nut and reading/watching too many doco’s on Italy during World War 2 and learning about the marvellous Medici family, Florence was always going to be a highlight of my recent trip to Italy. Add to that all the wonderful art, shopping, food, Tuscan wine, and Florentine lifestyle I just had to spend some decent time in this wonderful city. So why not stay 6 nights in Florence?

For me, Florence was to be a relaxing chill time in an otherwise busy 3 weeks in Europe (2 of which were in Italy). Call me a lazy traveler, but I did not want Florence to be spent standing in lines in an attempt to see some of the world’s most famous artworks. For me, Florence was going to be all about taking it slow, eating, drinking, getting familiar with the city and living like a local.

Knowing I would be coming back at some stage, I chose to do Florence at an easy pace. Meaning no art galleries, just chill. Absorb the city and all it has to offer.

After catching 3 trains from the Cinque Terre, passing through La Spezia and Pisa, the journey was a long one but in no time, I found myself at Stazione di Santa Maria Novella 15 minutes later and a few wrong turns I find myself out the front of what was to be home for me for 6 nights. Across the river Arno in the Oltrarno area, my apartment housed both a pizza restaurant AND a gelateria: Gelateria La Carraia. Yes, ok I may have chosen this apartment strictly for this reason. Hmm imagine the thought of a late night Gelati. Yes please.

You can read my review on the fabulous apartment I stayed in here.

Getting my bearings after a day exploring on foot, what struck me as really impressive is just how beautiful Florence is. It is walkable and from every vantage point of the city you can see the famous Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (otherwise known as the ‘Duomo’). And let me tell you how impressive that church is. IT IS EFFING HUGE! You see it everywhere, but it is just not like other churches you come across, white marble with blue. You know you’re near it but suddenly you turn a corner in an otherwise busy Florence street and there it is! Just standing there, no build up fanfare. It is simply magnificent. I did want to actually go inside this marvelous building but the lines to get in were over the top, and I had other things to explore.

Obviously, I had conducted a fair bit of research of Florence. One of the first things I did was download Maps.me Medici walking tour. So that was one full day of walking one of which I highly recommend if that is your thing. Another day of walking was up to Piazzale Michelangelo for an amazing view of the city, mountains and surrounding villages. On foot I also explored the Ponte Vecchio, Boboli Gardens, Giardino Bardini, Pitti Palace, Basilica of Santa Croce, Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce, Basillica of Santa Maria Novella, Strozzi Palace, Basilica di San Lorenzo and just strolling around the River Arno.

Others tours on the cards were:

Tuscan winery tour (of course)
Walking food tour (of course)
Rooftop Aperitif sunset history lesson (of course)

Click on each one of those dot point things to read about each tour. Trust me, mostly all good, some pointers included should you head to Florence and want some ideas. My favourite was the rooftop Aperitivo sunset tour which became a history lesson. While it did happen to be a super rainy evening it was nonetheless, a perfect setting to learn all about Florence and the Medici family.

And then there’s the leather. Florentine leather. There is absolutely nothing like it and it is sold in abundance. I may have splurged a fair bit and managed to squeeze 3 leather bags into my carry-on sized bag. Yes, I did Italy with only carry on sized luggage AND survived with a lot of shopping done. You can read about my carry-on sized luggage for 3 weeks in Europe quest here.

Food in Florence. I may have gone back to the same restaurant twice for a bowl of Tagliatelle Ragu, yes it was THAT good! A delightful bowl of Rapatoni Napoletani De Cecco with tomato and salted ricotta at Trattoria Borgo Antico, Santo Spirito on my first night exploring Florence. Yes, I did sample that Pizzeria out the front of the apartment that I stayed in, twice mind you. Pizza that Australia has only just woken up to in the last few years, simple, deceptively large, yet so bloody tasty. And to eat it? It’s never cut, you just slice off a piece and roll it and shove it in your gob! No strategically cut triangles, just whatever takes your fancy. It was all kinds of amazing and I was more than happy to indulge.

Then there’s Gelati. Well the Gelateria out the front of my apartment. Long lines of people at night, obviously this was THE place south side of the Arno to grab a delightful cone or cup of your favourite flavours. AND sample I did! Why wouldn’t I when it was literally on my doorstep. Each night after dinner on my way home from exploring, I’d grab a medium cup of different flavours to help decompress the day before bed. I mean I DID choose this apartment solely based on the proximity to the Gelateria, the staff there came to know me!

I did not try the Florentine steak. Of all accounts from many people I met on my travels, for a solo traveler who is budget conscious, it would have been a waste. Probably the only thing I wish I had of done but as I said earlier, I will be going back to Florence.

Found quite a few bars in my travels. My favourite bar afternoon was hopping between a few outdoor bars in the Pallazzo Vecchio drinking wine and devouring pasta all while watching some kind of festival/procession and flag waving ceremony was happening. To be honest, it was really enthralling watching proceedings and seeing the locals immerse themselves in goings on… all while I ate and drank wine close to the outdoor statute of David. What a perfect day!

I did frequent an Irish bar a few times after exploring Florence. I know I know, not very Italian, but the staff were pretty awesome and it felt like a local Melbourne bar to me and this trip I was feeling a little homesick, so why not. The beers were good and the Aperitivo was even better. Some afternoons I’d fill up on enough food to not need to have dinner or have a late-night snack *cough, Gelati, cough*! I really did embrace this whole ‘living like a local’ concept.

The Irish bar had some wonderful characters. One in particular was a 60 something man who took quite a liking to this Aussie girl. Offering himself as an Italian sacrifice should I feel a bit ’lonely’ at night. I passed, obviously, but could not get away from him without a kiss on the cheek. Crazy bugger went in for a big grope and I MAY have seen his tongue coming for me. Alas, a firm NO and a few laughs later and I said goodbye to my could-be (definitely-not) Italian lover. Ahhhh Italian men, you do impress me for all that you try, in the name of ‘tourism’ no doubt ;-).

On my quest to not spend my limited time in Florence in lines waiting for entry into the many art galleries, just roaming the streets was enough for me. I mean the whole city really is an art gallery in itself. There simply is art EVERYWHERE. Statutes pop up just around every corner. Bells in churches ring out almost hourly. No, I did not go and see the statue of David, but the one outdoors that was impressive and enough for me.

This trip I just wanted to immerse myself in Florence and live like a local. I really do think that I succeeded in this. I was happy, content and had a very full belly. I may have even got a bit drunk a few times which is something I am mindful of doing while travelling solo, but Florence just seemed really safe to me. Florence at night is Vibrant and beautiful. Most of all, the people are happy and equally as vibrant and to me, that makes for a great place to stay and even live.

My last night in Florence was spent at a small hotel called Parione Uno, a 10-minute walk across the Arno, as I had to vacate my apartment. You can read the review here. I also was happy to have a mix of staying on both sides of the river Arno.

Honestly could have spent a month in Florence and surrounds. I mean I didn’t actually get OUT of Florence, apart from my winery tour. If I had more time, I would have stayed in some of the smaller villages in the Tuscan countryside. How lush! More time meant that I could have actually gone to the galleries and met more people. But for what time I did have I really did love Florence as I knew I would.

6 nights for a first timer is probably enough, especially if you have a lot more of Italy to cover. However, that being said, stay longer. Please, you owe it to yourself. I look forward to my next trip and doing all the things that I missed on this trip.

Cinque Terre: 2 days of rest, relaxation and beauty

July 28, 2019October 28, 2022Cinque Terre, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel admin

What more can be said about the Cinque Terre other that it is just amazingly stunning. Beautiful. Picturesque. Tranquil (after the tourists have left for the day). One of the highlights of my trip to Italy.

If you don’t have a car, the journey can be a relatively long one unless you’re staying close to La Spezia. Me, nah I was coming from Bologna via train. On the map it looks like maybe 2 hours, but my trip took 7. Three connections and two delayed trains (Italy sort your shit out with that please), but I eventually got there, determined to see the famous Cinque Terre!

From Bologna I took a train to the outskirts of Florence. Train delay number 1 for 2 hours! Then a train to Pisa and no I did not get off and go visit the ‘Leaning Tower of Pisa’ after seeing the impressive ones in Bologna (you can read about that here) there was no need to. But you know, another train delay meant that I probably could have. Another train to La Spezia then it was FINALLY onto my destination, Monterosso al Mare.

The Cinque Terre (five towns in Italian) is five cliff towns on the west cost of Italy in the Liguria region. Centuries old seaside villages each with their own charm but all filled with colourful homes and vineyards that cling to steep terraces. Pretty much all of the Cinque Terre is steep! But oh, so beautiful. Post card stuff! For the five towns, their harbors are filled with fishing boats and trattorias that turn out seafood specialties along with the Liguria region’s famous sauce, pesto. Which is divine. The Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking trail links the villages and offers sweeping sea views. If you are into hiking and are fit enough the trek between the five towns is meant to be quite special. But I am not that fit and I was on a tight time schedule.

Monterosso al Mare is the furthest away from La Spezia (or Florence if you don’t know where that is) but the closest to Portofino and Genova. Next is Vernazza, followed by Corniglia, Manarola and lastly Riomaggiore which is the closest to La Spezia/Florence side of the Cinque Terre.

Staying in the Cinque Terre can be expensive but worth it if you can stretch your dollar. A lot of tourist stay in nearby towns like La Spezia and train it to the Cinque Terre daily. It is after all only a 15-minute train ride. Speaking of trains, the 5 towns are linked by a fabulous train system of which you can buy daily passes. Italy train system got that one right!

I chose to mix it up on my stay in the Cinque Terre. The first night I stayed in Monterosso al Mare which is the flattest of all the towns. The second night was in Riomaggiore. Sadly, only had two nights in the area. Next time I will definitely stay a week and totally chill because it certainly is the place to do so!

My arrival in Monterosso al Mare was met with a short 10-minute walk from the train station into the main part of town. That walk alone was enough for me to know I’d be having a super relaxed time in the Cinque Terre. People just seemed happier; I mean why wouldn’t they with those views. Hawkers sell items on the beach and on the roads and for split second I thought I was on a beach in Bali. The whole vibe, the shops and hawkers were all a little hippie, a lot coastal and quite alternative. Not so mainstream Italian which was for me, a nice change of pace being a bit of an alternative seeker myself.

I managed to find my hotel/boarding house called an Affittacamere (you can read my review of Affittacamere Sull’Arco here) quite easily and after unpacking went out walking around, and finding a spot to people watch and shop watch. From where I sat, I could easily pick out 3 shops from which I just knew the next day I was going to make some serious purchases from.

Being late into Monterosso al Mare after the too many train delays, I found a great little Osteria off the main street and sat myself down to do my favourite of all the things in Italy, Aperitivo of Aperol Spritz. What I love about Aperitivo is the food that accompanies that is all complimentary. This place gave me fresh hot focaccia, olives and potato chips. That was simply enough for me, not wanting to spoil myself of a bowl of pasta for dinner. However, no matter how many drinks you order, you get a fresh plate of food every time. Damn. And I like to drink! Alas, money saved, no dinner needed! Of course. I left myself enough room for Gelati.

I wasn’t expected at the next Affittacamere in Riomaggiore until midday the next day so off I went spending my hard-earned Aussie dollar (little battler)! Managed to get myself a beautiful olive-green linen top, stone necklace and….. bag number 1 (of many) on my trip to Italy. I wish I could remember the name of the shop because this lady was selling some really beautiful clothes, bags and jewelry (all of the hippie variety) and she was super lovely giving me items for free because she “loves Australians”. Ah I know where the shop was so when I get back to the Cinque Terre, I will find her… I will buy from her… I will, I promise!

I was met at Riomaggiore train station by the hotel staff as they didn’t want me to get lost finding the Affittacamere . And thank the universe they did! I went through such a maze of back alleys and buildings that I was 100% sure I would get lost time and time again. My room at Alla Marina Affittacamere was divine, you can read my review here. Again, settle in and then explore. Big photo opportunities in Riomaggiore when exploring. Nothing was more satisfying than the perfect shots I took and the obligatory gelati with beautiful Riomaggiore as a backdrop.

Riomaggiore is much steeper than Monterosso al Mare so you know what’s a girl to do but find a bar in the sun and chill for a while. From my little table I managed to start chatting to some new friends from Texas (who have since followed The Bright Eyed Explorer), Germany and the UK. Got to love being a world traveller and someone who can converse with strangers at whim. I think I spent the most of my afternoon talking & drinking with strangers.

My hotel recommended a lovely place for dinner which ended up being not overly great but I had steak and Cinque Terre is famous for seafood (which I sadly don’t eat) but this was the most expensive meal for my entire trip. Ah give me pizza or pasta any day! I managed to have a bit of an altercation with bar staff at the place I went to after dinner. I’d passed this bar several times during the day and thought it would be a great place to head to later in the evening. But, no toilet, bad communication meant that I was duped out of a pint of beer. Alas, a minor thing and there was always the bar across the street (the one I had been to earlier in the day) that was far more friendly and accommodating.

The worst thing about the Cinque Terre was leaving. But Florence was calling my name. I am so so so glad I went because I almost didn’t. A shame that it was only for 2 nights because I was super relaxed and damn happy being there. I can certainly see myself back in the Cinque Terre some time when the weather is warm and the drinks are flowing. A week to unwind and chill and write would be my ultimate dream.

And then maybe I would go visit the other 3 towns. I’ll admit I was pretty lazy on my trip to the Cinque Terre but, well needed time to chill was what I was after and I succeeded with that on a great level. The only regret I do have is that I didn’t get out on a boat and see the towns from the water. I did try but would have been the only person to charter a boat and at 80 Euro, that was something the AUD didn’t stretch to. I’ll be back, it’s ok.

Cinque Terre? Just do it!

You can read my blog post of my recent trip to the foodie capital of Italy, Bologna right here

2 nights in Bologna – The foodie capital of Italy

July 28, 2019October 28, 2022Adventure, Bologna, Carry on luggage, Carry on only, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel, Uncategorized admin

Bologna is the largest city in the Emillia Romangna region of northern Italy. It is kind of half way between Venice and Florence. Known as La Rossa (the red), La Grassa (the fat) and La Dotta (the learned), Bologna is famous for its ancient architecture and terracotta colour buildings, rich beautiful food and being home to the first and oldest university in Europe. Not as busy as Venice, Rome, or Florence but certainly a city that is worth a visit when travelling through Italy.

For me, it was all about the food! Being a huge fan of Italian food and in particular Spaghetti Bolognaise (hey that is what it is called in Australia) I knew I had to make Bologna a stop on my recent trip to Italy. After two hectic days in Venice, Bologna was a very welcomed change of pace for me.

To get to Bologna from Venice, I jumped on a train that took about an hour and 20 minutes and cost $25 AUD. Too easy! I chose to stay in the university neighbourhood in the Centro Storico (historical centre) of Bologna which is literally a 10-minute walk into Piazza Maggiore and the Fountain of Neptune. Through Booking.com I managed to find a lovely 1-bedroom apartment to which the owner was simply lovely and very accommodating giving me loads of handy hints, places to eat and areas to explore. My review of Le Casine Di Vladimir (my apartment) is here.

After familiarising myself with the apartment I was off to explore the area. I spent a few hours roaming around Bologna’s famous (and very beautiful) porticos, people watching, grocery shopping and beer drinking at Cluricaune Irish Pub. Upon numerous recommendations from locals and people back in Australia it was an absolute must that I try out one of Bologna’s most famous Osterias ‘Osteria dell’Orsa’.

The place is loaded with people at all hours looking for a cheap, simple but authentic meal. Often there is a wait for a table with people queuing out the front, but the lines apparently move fairly quickly. With this in mind, I decided to miss the crowds and line up and have an early dinner. I managed to score a seat on a shared table filled with the united nations of diners. My table was mixed with a few locals, Germans, Singaporeans, a solo Israeli traveler and this solo Aussie chick. Every single one of us ordered the same. Tagliatelle al Ragu. Or as Australian’s like to call it, spaghetti bolognaise (I promise to never call it that again!)

Let. Me. Tell. You…. How AMAZING this simple bowl of pasta was. It was freaking delightful, never have a tasted a pasta dish like it. So good that I am pretty sure that my eyes rolled back in my head at one point. My dinner comrades must have felt the same as you could hear a pin drop at our table while eating, only 5 minutes before that we were all laughing and telling travel stories! The food is all sourced locally and the pasta is home made. The wine is sourced from a town called Imola which is located 40 kilometres from Bologna. If you’re in Bologna, definitely definitely, definitely put Osteria dell’Orsa on your must do list.

With a full belly, I left the Osteria, grabbed some wine and headed off to Piazza Maggiore to do more people watching while reading, writing and drinking my wine like a local. On a warm spring night there is no better way to enjoy the best of Bologna, the locals certainly enjoy it probably more than the tourists.

The next day I had booked myself on a walking foodie tour. Being in the food capital of Italy doing a food tour was simply a must. You can read more about the food tour in my review ‘Best of food in Bologna’ but, this is when I had my first of many gelati on my trip to Italy. I was soon to become hooked! I was also able to take in more of Bologna’s famous sites, including the famous leaning Asinelli towers. Situated in the heart of Bologna, the towers were built in the 12^th century and both have an impressive lean on them which is an interesting view from below when looking up. These two towers have more than a lean on them than the famous ‘Leaning Tower of Pisa’. Pretty impressive. After the tour I wandered around the food market and purchased my dinner Lasagne alla Bolognese as well as some really rich balsamic vinegar and other foodie treats for the rest of my trip. It was an early exit to the Cinque Terre the next morning so a home cooked meal fresh from the market in my humble little apartment was a perfect end to my short stay in Bologna.

Bologna really is an Italian food lover’s paradise. The Bolognesi are clearly very passionate about their food, wine and produce and so they should be! It all really is of such high quality. The absolutely lovely thing is that they also nurture the recipes that have been passed down from generations. The food is traditional and while it is simple you really can feel the love and care that has gone into perfecting these recipes. When eating out in Bologna you really get the impression that you are eating food that has been lovingly passed down from the chefs Nona.

Although my stay in Bologna was quite short, it was really enjoyable. I felt safe, comfortable and relaxed. It is a picturesque city with a really cool vibe. I will definitely head back to Bologna and stay longer the next time I am in Italy.

Read how full of food and happy I was in 2 days exploring Venice in my blog post 2 days in Venice, Italy: Lost, happy & full of food!

2 days in Venice, Italy: Lost, happy & full of food!

July 14, 2019October 28, 2022Adventure, Carry on luggage, Carry on only, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel, Venice admin

Oh Venice! To be totally honest, after hearing some not so great reports, mostly about tourist overcrowding, I wasn’t really expecting much for my stay. But, unexpectedly I immediately fell in love as soon as I got out of the train station. I mean what is not too love. It is a visual masterpiece! Like there it all is, beautiful old buildings, the grand canal right there in front of you. Stunning. Like as stunning as it is in pictures, but better because you’re there.

I only had 2 nights in Venice as I’d been warned that eventually the number of tourists during the day will get quite annoying. From all reports from friends and family that had been and knowing myself too well (not a fan of crowds) I had contemplated skipping it entirely. Gladly sense prevailed, so the tradeoff would be 2 nights and just suck up the number of tourists. I mean, I can’t come all the way from Australia to Italy and miss Venice right?

Instantly I got lost. That pretty much set the pace for the rest of my stay.

I mean a stay in Venice wouldn’t be a stay in Venice without getting lost. Everyone does it so I knew I was in good company. Handy hint: It really does help to download a map on maps.me before you get there (this phone app really helped on several occasions in Italy) or just stuff the expense and roam data using google maps.

After finding Ca’ due Leonie, my hotel, YES ok it took me 20 minutes whereas it should have taken me 5, and wondering around for a few hours (yes, getting lost) it was time for my first Venetian tour, Streaty’s Venice food and wine night experience. I mean, I am quite the food and wine lover and Italy is famous for its high quality food and wine so let’s just start my stay in Italy off on the right foot hey! It would be a crime not to, right? I simply love food and booze. Something that if you’re a reader of this blog or know me personally, you already know quite well right!

You can read more about my food & wine experience in Venice right here.

It would have been about 9pm when the tour finished so time to explore Venice at night. With my mobile phone, google maps and headphones, there was absolutely no chance I’d get lost right?

Wrong!

Anyway, managed to somehow stumble across the Rialto Bridge, which is rather impressive at night. I went back the following day and did much prefer the night time view. Plus, there was slightly less people. Following on from that I slowly strolled through Cannaregio, over many of Venice’s famous bridges, peering into shops before settling in at a bar to sit out the front (it was a warm night) and have a glass of wine whilst people watching. Which is one of my favorite solo travel things to do. I did manage to find my way back to my hotel reasonably easy for a good nights sleep, aided by the few drinks I’d had on tour.

The next morning it was up early to try and get out exploring before the hordes of crowds descended upon Venice on my only full day there. Unfortunately, I wasn’t the only one who had that idea. As soon as I had found the Grand Canal, I was hit with an onslaught of people. Everywhere. Bugger it! There were so many people that getting over bridges was done at snails pace and the very narrow walkways you were shoulder to shoulder with people. Often, I had to move into a shop to get out of the way on oncoming foot traffic. CRAZY!!!!

My morning mission was to find my way to St Mark’s Square, have a squiz and visit the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica. But the crowds had beaten me to it, with long lines to get in I decided to skip seeing inside and just be happy with seeing from the outside. St Mark’s Square was a flourish of activity, music, performance and flags being waved everywhere. Wondering if this was normal for a Friday, I asked a local who could tell me it was Italy’s Independence Day AND their saint, St Mark’s day!

Yep, not just one reason for a day off but two. No bloody wonder there were so many people! Not to be deterred, after all I had almost not gone to Venice at all, I wondered around, people watched, drank coffee and then when it was time to eat.. Pizza!!! My first pizza in Italy! And boy did it not disappoint. It was actually huge and I knew I would not get through the whole thing, but hell I gave it a fair nudge.

After a bit more walking around, yes getting lost, some shopping, getting lost some more, looking in galleries, and sneaking an Aperitivo or two the afternoon had got away from me and it was time for dinner. This time… Pasta! Real Italian pasta, my favourite. I ate at Tre Archi which was right around the corner from Ca’ due Leonie. The restaurant is right on the water so it was lovely to sit outside and watch people go by whilst eating pasta and drinking Aperol spritz.

My third day in Venice was my last, and it was an early exit. Part of me wanted to stay and explore more, mostly I wanted to get out of there away from the crowds of tourists and off to Bologna. Venice truly is beautiful. It is stunning and it is unique. The locals are absolutely lovely and willing to get to know you or help you.

I am disappointed that I couldn’t stay longer but the sheer number of tourists was enough for me. Perhaps next time I go to Italy I will plan to go on the off season closer to winter (but not during) where the place is starting to quiet down. Maybe that will make for a much more pleasant experience.

I stayed at Ca’ Due Leoni while in Venice. You can read my review here