italianfood Archives - The Bright Eyed Explorer

6 nights in Florence – how to live and chill like a local

January 5, 2020October 28, 2022Adventure, Europe, Florence, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel admin

Florence had been on my mind as a must go to place for far too many years. After all, being a bit of a history nut and reading/watching too many doco’s on Italy during World War 2 and learning about the marvellous Medici family, Florence was always going to be a highlight of my recent trip to Italy. Add to that all the wonderful art, shopping, food, Tuscan wine, and Florentine lifestyle I just had to spend some decent time in this wonderful city. So why not stay 6 nights in Florence?

For me, Florence was to be a relaxing chill time in an otherwise busy 3 weeks in Europe (2 of which were in Italy). Call me a lazy traveler, but I did not want Florence to be spent standing in lines in an attempt to see some of the world’s most famous artworks. For me, Florence was going to be all about taking it slow, eating, drinking, getting familiar with the city and living like a local.

Knowing I would be coming back at some stage, I chose to do Florence at an easy pace. Meaning no art galleries, just chill. Absorb the city and all it has to offer.

After catching 3 trains from the Cinque Terre, passing through La Spezia and Pisa, the journey was a long one but in no time, I found myself at Stazione di Santa Maria Novella 15 minutes later and a few wrong turns I find myself out the front of what was to be home for me for 6 nights. Across the river Arno in the Oltrarno area, my apartment housed both a pizza restaurant AND a gelateria: Gelateria La Carraia. Yes, ok I may have chosen this apartment strictly for this reason. Hmm imagine the thought of a late night Gelati. Yes please.

You can read my review on the fabulous apartment I stayed in here.

Getting my bearings after a day exploring on foot, what struck me as really impressive is just how beautiful Florence is. It is walkable and from every vantage point of the city you can see the famous Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (otherwise known as the ‘Duomo’). And let me tell you how impressive that church is. IT IS EFFING HUGE! You see it everywhere, but it is just not like other churches you come across, white marble with blue. You know you’re near it but suddenly you turn a corner in an otherwise busy Florence street and there it is! Just standing there, no build up fanfare. It is simply magnificent. I did want to actually go inside this marvelous building but the lines to get in were over the top, and I had other things to explore.

Obviously, I had conducted a fair bit of research of Florence. One of the first things I did was download Maps.me Medici walking tour. So that was one full day of walking one of which I highly recommend if that is your thing. Another day of walking was up to Piazzale Michelangelo for an amazing view of the city, mountains and surrounding villages. On foot I also explored the Ponte Vecchio, Boboli Gardens, Giardino Bardini, Pitti Palace, Basilica of Santa Croce, Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce, Basillica of Santa Maria Novella, Strozzi Palace, Basilica di San Lorenzo and just strolling around the River Arno.

Others tours on the cards were:

Tuscan winery tour (of course)
Walking food tour (of course)
Rooftop Aperitif sunset history lesson (of course)

Click on each one of those dot point things to read about each tour. Trust me, mostly all good, some pointers included should you head to Florence and want some ideas. My favourite was the rooftop Aperitivo sunset tour which became a history lesson. While it did happen to be a super rainy evening it was nonetheless, a perfect setting to learn all about Florence and the Medici family.

And then there’s the leather. Florentine leather. There is absolutely nothing like it and it is sold in abundance. I may have splurged a fair bit and managed to squeeze 3 leather bags into my carry-on sized bag. Yes, I did Italy with only carry on sized luggage AND survived with a lot of shopping done. You can read about my carry-on sized luggage for 3 weeks in Europe quest here.

Food in Florence. I may have gone back to the same restaurant twice for a bowl of Tagliatelle Ragu, yes it was THAT good! A delightful bowl of Rapatoni Napoletani De Cecco with tomato and salted ricotta at Trattoria Borgo Antico, Santo Spirito on my first night exploring Florence. Yes, I did sample that Pizzeria out the front of the apartment that I stayed in, twice mind you. Pizza that Australia has only just woken up to in the last few years, simple, deceptively large, yet so bloody tasty. And to eat it? It’s never cut, you just slice off a piece and roll it and shove it in your gob! No strategically cut triangles, just whatever takes your fancy. It was all kinds of amazing and I was more than happy to indulge.

Then there’s Gelati. Well the Gelateria out the front of my apartment. Long lines of people at night, obviously this was THE place south side of the Arno to grab a delightful cone or cup of your favourite flavours. AND sample I did! Why wouldn’t I when it was literally on my doorstep. Each night after dinner on my way home from exploring, I’d grab a medium cup of different flavours to help decompress the day before bed. I mean I DID choose this apartment solely based on the proximity to the Gelateria, the staff there came to know me!

I did not try the Florentine steak. Of all accounts from many people I met on my travels, for a solo traveler who is budget conscious, it would have been a waste. Probably the only thing I wish I had of done but as I said earlier, I will be going back to Florence.

Found quite a few bars in my travels. My favourite bar afternoon was hopping between a few outdoor bars in the Pallazzo Vecchio drinking wine and devouring pasta all while watching some kind of festival/procession and flag waving ceremony was happening. To be honest, it was really enthralling watching proceedings and seeing the locals immerse themselves in goings on… all while I ate and drank wine close to the outdoor statute of David. What a perfect day!

I did frequent an Irish bar a few times after exploring Florence. I know I know, not very Italian, but the staff were pretty awesome and it felt like a local Melbourne bar to me and this trip I was feeling a little homesick, so why not. The beers were good and the Aperitivo was even better. Some afternoons I’d fill up on enough food to not need to have dinner or have a late-night snack *cough, Gelati, cough*! I really did embrace this whole ‘living like a local’ concept.

The Irish bar had some wonderful characters. One in particular was a 60 something man who took quite a liking to this Aussie girl. Offering himself as an Italian sacrifice should I feel a bit ’lonely’ at night. I passed, obviously, but could not get away from him without a kiss on the cheek. Crazy bugger went in for a big grope and I MAY have seen his tongue coming for me. Alas, a firm NO and a few laughs later and I said goodbye to my could-be (definitely-not) Italian lover. Ahhhh Italian men, you do impress me for all that you try, in the name of ‘tourism’ no doubt ;-).

On my quest to not spend my limited time in Florence in lines waiting for entry into the many art galleries, just roaming the streets was enough for me. I mean the whole city really is an art gallery in itself. There simply is art EVERYWHERE. Statutes pop up just around every corner. Bells in churches ring out almost hourly. No, I did not go and see the statue of David, but the one outdoors that was impressive and enough for me.

This trip I just wanted to immerse myself in Florence and live like a local. I really do think that I succeeded in this. I was happy, content and had a very full belly. I may have even got a bit drunk a few times which is something I am mindful of doing while travelling solo, but Florence just seemed really safe to me. Florence at night is Vibrant and beautiful. Most of all, the people are happy and equally as vibrant and to me, that makes for a great place to stay and even live.

My last night in Florence was spent at a small hotel called Parione Uno, a 10-minute walk across the Arno, as I had to vacate my apartment. You can read the review here. I also was happy to have a mix of staying on both sides of the river Arno.

Honestly could have spent a month in Florence and surrounds. I mean I didn’t actually get OUT of Florence, apart from my winery tour. If I had more time, I would have stayed in some of the smaller villages in the Tuscan countryside. How lush! More time meant that I could have actually gone to the galleries and met more people. But for what time I did have I really did love Florence as I knew I would.

6 nights for a first timer is probably enough, especially if you have a lot more of Italy to cover. However, that being said, stay longer. Please, you owe it to yourself. I look forward to my next trip and doing all the things that I missed on this trip.

Cinque Terre: 2 days of rest, relaxation and beauty

July 28, 2019October 28, 2022Cinque Terre, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel admin

What more can be said about the Cinque Terre other that it is just amazingly stunning. Beautiful. Picturesque. Tranquil (after the tourists have left for the day). One of the highlights of my trip to Italy.

If you don’t have a car, the journey can be a relatively long one unless you’re staying close to La Spezia. Me, nah I was coming from Bologna via train. On the map it looks like maybe 2 hours, but my trip took 7. Three connections and two delayed trains (Italy sort your shit out with that please), but I eventually got there, determined to see the famous Cinque Terre!

From Bologna I took a train to the outskirts of Florence. Train delay number 1 for 2 hours! Then a train to Pisa and no I did not get off and go visit the ‘Leaning Tower of Pisa’ after seeing the impressive ones in Bologna (you can read about that here) there was no need to. But you know, another train delay meant that I probably could have. Another train to La Spezia then it was FINALLY onto my destination, Monterosso al Mare.

The Cinque Terre (five towns in Italian) is five cliff towns on the west cost of Italy in the Liguria region. Centuries old seaside villages each with their own charm but all filled with colourful homes and vineyards that cling to steep terraces. Pretty much all of the Cinque Terre is steep! But oh, so beautiful. Post card stuff! For the five towns, their harbors are filled with fishing boats and trattorias that turn out seafood specialties along with the Liguria region’s famous sauce, pesto. Which is divine. The Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking trail links the villages and offers sweeping sea views. If you are into hiking and are fit enough the trek between the five towns is meant to be quite special. But I am not that fit and I was on a tight time schedule.

Monterosso al Mare is the furthest away from La Spezia (or Florence if you don’t know where that is) but the closest to Portofino and Genova. Next is Vernazza, followed by Corniglia, Manarola and lastly Riomaggiore which is the closest to La Spezia/Florence side of the Cinque Terre.

Staying in the Cinque Terre can be expensive but worth it if you can stretch your dollar. A lot of tourist stay in nearby towns like La Spezia and train it to the Cinque Terre daily. It is after all only a 15-minute train ride. Speaking of trains, the 5 towns are linked by a fabulous train system of which you can buy daily passes. Italy train system got that one right!

I chose to mix it up on my stay in the Cinque Terre. The first night I stayed in Monterosso al Mare which is the flattest of all the towns. The second night was in Riomaggiore. Sadly, only had two nights in the area. Next time I will definitely stay a week and totally chill because it certainly is the place to do so!

My arrival in Monterosso al Mare was met with a short 10-minute walk from the train station into the main part of town. That walk alone was enough for me to know I’d be having a super relaxed time in the Cinque Terre. People just seemed happier; I mean why wouldn’t they with those views. Hawkers sell items on the beach and on the roads and for split second I thought I was on a beach in Bali. The whole vibe, the shops and hawkers were all a little hippie, a lot coastal and quite alternative. Not so mainstream Italian which was for me, a nice change of pace being a bit of an alternative seeker myself.

I managed to find my hotel/boarding house called an Affittacamere (you can read my review of Affittacamere Sull’Arco here) quite easily and after unpacking went out walking around, and finding a spot to people watch and shop watch. From where I sat, I could easily pick out 3 shops from which I just knew the next day I was going to make some serious purchases from.

Being late into Monterosso al Mare after the too many train delays, I found a great little Osteria off the main street and sat myself down to do my favourite of all the things in Italy, Aperitivo of Aperol Spritz. What I love about Aperitivo is the food that accompanies that is all complimentary. This place gave me fresh hot focaccia, olives and potato chips. That was simply enough for me, not wanting to spoil myself of a bowl of pasta for dinner. However, no matter how many drinks you order, you get a fresh plate of food every time. Damn. And I like to drink! Alas, money saved, no dinner needed! Of course. I left myself enough room for Gelati.

I wasn’t expected at the next Affittacamere in Riomaggiore until midday the next day so off I went spending my hard-earned Aussie dollar (little battler)! Managed to get myself a beautiful olive-green linen top, stone necklace and….. bag number 1 (of many) on my trip to Italy. I wish I could remember the name of the shop because this lady was selling some really beautiful clothes, bags and jewelry (all of the hippie variety) and she was super lovely giving me items for free because she “loves Australians”. Ah I know where the shop was so when I get back to the Cinque Terre, I will find her… I will buy from her… I will, I promise!

I was met at Riomaggiore train station by the hotel staff as they didn’t want me to get lost finding the Affittacamere . And thank the universe they did! I went through such a maze of back alleys and buildings that I was 100% sure I would get lost time and time again. My room at Alla Marina Affittacamere was divine, you can read my review here. Again, settle in and then explore. Big photo opportunities in Riomaggiore when exploring. Nothing was more satisfying than the perfect shots I took and the obligatory gelati with beautiful Riomaggiore as a backdrop.

Riomaggiore is much steeper than Monterosso al Mare so you know what’s a girl to do but find a bar in the sun and chill for a while. From my little table I managed to start chatting to some new friends from Texas (who have since followed The Bright Eyed Explorer), Germany and the UK. Got to love being a world traveller and someone who can converse with strangers at whim. I think I spent the most of my afternoon talking & drinking with strangers.

My hotel recommended a lovely place for dinner which ended up being not overly great but I had steak and Cinque Terre is famous for seafood (which I sadly don’t eat) but this was the most expensive meal for my entire trip. Ah give me pizza or pasta any day! I managed to have a bit of an altercation with bar staff at the place I went to after dinner. I’d passed this bar several times during the day and thought it would be a great place to head to later in the evening. But, no toilet, bad communication meant that I was duped out of a pint of beer. Alas, a minor thing and there was always the bar across the street (the one I had been to earlier in the day) that was far more friendly and accommodating.

The worst thing about the Cinque Terre was leaving. But Florence was calling my name. I am so so so glad I went because I almost didn’t. A shame that it was only for 2 nights because I was super relaxed and damn happy being there. I can certainly see myself back in the Cinque Terre some time when the weather is warm and the drinks are flowing. A week to unwind and chill and write would be my ultimate dream.

And then maybe I would go visit the other 3 towns. I’ll admit I was pretty lazy on my trip to the Cinque Terre but, well needed time to chill was what I was after and I succeeded with that on a great level. The only regret I do have is that I didn’t get out on a boat and see the towns from the water. I did try but would have been the only person to charter a boat and at 80 Euro, that was something the AUD didn’t stretch to. I’ll be back, it’s ok.

Cinque Terre? Just do it!

You can read my blog post of my recent trip to the foodie capital of Italy, Bologna right here

2 nights in Bologna – The foodie capital of Italy

July 28, 2019October 28, 2022Adventure, Bologna, Carry on luggage, Carry on only, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel, Uncategorized admin

Bologna is the largest city in the Emillia Romangna region of northern Italy. It is kind of half way between Venice and Florence. Known as La Rossa (the red), La Grassa (the fat) and La Dotta (the learned), Bologna is famous for its ancient architecture and terracotta colour buildings, rich beautiful food and being home to the first and oldest university in Europe. Not as busy as Venice, Rome, or Florence but certainly a city that is worth a visit when travelling through Italy.

For me, it was all about the food! Being a huge fan of Italian food and in particular Spaghetti Bolognaise (hey that is what it is called in Australia) I knew I had to make Bologna a stop on my recent trip to Italy. After two hectic days in Venice, Bologna was a very welcomed change of pace for me.

To get to Bologna from Venice, I jumped on a train that took about an hour and 20 minutes and cost $25 AUD. Too easy! I chose to stay in the university neighbourhood in the Centro Storico (historical centre) of Bologna which is literally a 10-minute walk into Piazza Maggiore and the Fountain of Neptune. Through Booking.com I managed to find a lovely 1-bedroom apartment to which the owner was simply lovely and very accommodating giving me loads of handy hints, places to eat and areas to explore. My review of Le Casine Di Vladimir (my apartment) is here.

After familiarising myself with the apartment I was off to explore the area. I spent a few hours roaming around Bologna’s famous (and very beautiful) porticos, people watching, grocery shopping and beer drinking at Cluricaune Irish Pub. Upon numerous recommendations from locals and people back in Australia it was an absolute must that I try out one of Bologna’s most famous Osterias ‘Osteria dell’Orsa’.

The place is loaded with people at all hours looking for a cheap, simple but authentic meal. Often there is a wait for a table with people queuing out the front, but the lines apparently move fairly quickly. With this in mind, I decided to miss the crowds and line up and have an early dinner. I managed to score a seat on a shared table filled with the united nations of diners. My table was mixed with a few locals, Germans, Singaporeans, a solo Israeli traveler and this solo Aussie chick. Every single one of us ordered the same. Tagliatelle al Ragu. Or as Australian’s like to call it, spaghetti bolognaise (I promise to never call it that again!)

Let. Me. Tell. You…. How AMAZING this simple bowl of pasta was. It was freaking delightful, never have a tasted a pasta dish like it. So good that I am pretty sure that my eyes rolled back in my head at one point. My dinner comrades must have felt the same as you could hear a pin drop at our table while eating, only 5 minutes before that we were all laughing and telling travel stories! The food is all sourced locally and the pasta is home made. The wine is sourced from a town called Imola which is located 40 kilometres from Bologna. If you’re in Bologna, definitely definitely, definitely put Osteria dell’Orsa on your must do list.

With a full belly, I left the Osteria, grabbed some wine and headed off to Piazza Maggiore to do more people watching while reading, writing and drinking my wine like a local. On a warm spring night there is no better way to enjoy the best of Bologna, the locals certainly enjoy it probably more than the tourists.

The next day I had booked myself on a walking foodie tour. Being in the food capital of Italy doing a food tour was simply a must. You can read more about the food tour in my review ‘Best of food in Bologna’ but, this is when I had my first of many gelati on my trip to Italy. I was soon to become hooked! I was also able to take in more of Bologna’s famous sites, including the famous leaning Asinelli towers. Situated in the heart of Bologna, the towers were built in the 12^th century and both have an impressive lean on them which is an interesting view from below when looking up. These two towers have more than a lean on them than the famous ‘Leaning Tower of Pisa’. Pretty impressive. After the tour I wandered around the food market and purchased my dinner Lasagne alla Bolognese as well as some really rich balsamic vinegar and other foodie treats for the rest of my trip. It was an early exit to the Cinque Terre the next morning so a home cooked meal fresh from the market in my humble little apartment was a perfect end to my short stay in Bologna.

Bologna really is an Italian food lover’s paradise. The Bolognesi are clearly very passionate about their food, wine and produce and so they should be! It all really is of such high quality. The absolutely lovely thing is that they also nurture the recipes that have been passed down from generations. The food is traditional and while it is simple you really can feel the love and care that has gone into perfecting these recipes. When eating out in Bologna you really get the impression that you are eating food that has been lovingly passed down from the chefs Nona.

Although my stay in Bologna was quite short, it was really enjoyable. I felt safe, comfortable and relaxed. It is a picturesque city with a really cool vibe. I will definitely head back to Bologna and stay longer the next time I am in Italy.

Read how full of food and happy I was in 2 days exploring Venice in my blog post 2 days in Venice, Italy: Lost, happy & full of food!

Best of food in Bologna

The tour was run by Elisabeth whom I discovered through AirBnB experiences. Elisabeth is actually from the Netherlands but I specifically chose her to take the tour so I could gain an outsider’s perspective on living in Bologna. Elisabeth is a student and attends university in Bologna. Specifically choosing Bologna for the chance to learn more about Italian food, art and culture.

The tour took us on foot through to Bologna’s oldest chocolate shop Majani Cioccolato Boutique which was established in 1796. In Majani, I was treated to sampling 4 chocolates of which I purchased one of each to ‘take home’. None of the chocolate I purchased even left Italy as I ate it all. Too good not to. My favourite was the FIAT Cremino, a 4-layer velvety alternation of hazelnut and almond paste, with sublime creaminess.

After Majani we walked through one of Bologna’s many food markets. We sampled some Piadina’s together which was a great chance to ask a lot of questions and take in the morning ritual of market shopping by the locals. It was especially nice to have Elisabeth sit down and eat with me.

The next stop was another food market area which was quite close to the Piazza Maggiore area. The streets are lined with butchers, fruit and vegetable shops, seafood places, bakeries and traditional Italian food shops. We were also able to sample some cheese and balsamic vinegar from around the area. I really enjoyed this part of the tour and made the decision to head back later to buy some lasagne alla bolognaise which I had been eyeing off.

Wondering around for a while we purchased some Crescentins (also known as Tigelle) which are a type of small flat bread that were filled with some meats and cheeses from the local area. We grabbed our food and ended up at Osteria del Sole that from memory was the oldest of its kind in Bologna. What an amazing little place. Families gather there with their own little picnics gathered from the surrounding markets and feast together with wine purchased at the bar. We sat on a lively table of a family that was celebrating just being together. Amazing to watch and be a part of. Elisabeth purchased our wine and after talking and eating and drinking and having such a great time, I ended up buying us more wine. Of course.

Lastly, we headed off along Bolognas famous porticos to Elizabeth’s favourite gelati place. My first (of many) gelati in Italy and let me tell you it was every bit as wonderful as I had imagined it to be. The shop has an abundance of flavours to try, I settled on two after a long wait trying to decide which ones to have.

For a 3-hour tour we certainly packed in a hell of a lot and I did not need to eat breakfast (which I was advised not to upon booking) or lunch. For just under $100 AUD this tour was certainly worth every dollar spent. Not only was the food amazing but being able to head into some places I would never have thought to if I was on my own was a really great experience. For someone whom is a new local to Bologna she certainly knows its history and stories really well. Elisabeth is also lovely, vibrant and a truly charming person to be around.

I’d highly recommend booking Elisabeth for your walking food tour of Bologna.

You can book Elisabeth through AirBnB Experiences

Check out more about my stay in Bologna in my post 2 nights in Bologna – The foodie capital of Italy

2 days in Venice, Italy: Lost, happy & full of food!

July 14, 2019October 28, 2022Adventure, Carry on luggage, Carry on only, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Italy, Leisure, Sightseeing, Solo Adventures, Solo female travel, Solo travel, Travel, Venice admin

Oh Venice! To be totally honest, after hearing some not so great reports, mostly about tourist overcrowding, I wasn’t really expecting much for my stay. But, unexpectedly I immediately fell in love as soon as I got out of the train station. I mean what is not too love. It is a visual masterpiece! Like there it all is, beautiful old buildings, the grand canal right there in front of you. Stunning. Like as stunning as it is in pictures, but better because you’re there.

I only had 2 nights in Venice as I’d been warned that eventually the number of tourists during the day will get quite annoying. From all reports from friends and family that had been and knowing myself too well (not a fan of crowds) I had contemplated skipping it entirely. Gladly sense prevailed, so the tradeoff would be 2 nights and just suck up the number of tourists. I mean, I can’t come all the way from Australia to Italy and miss Venice right?

Instantly I got lost. That pretty much set the pace for the rest of my stay.

I mean a stay in Venice wouldn’t be a stay in Venice without getting lost. Everyone does it so I knew I was in good company. Handy hint: It really does help to download a map on maps.me before you get there (this phone app really helped on several occasions in Italy) or just stuff the expense and roam data using google maps.

After finding Ca’ due Leonie, my hotel, YES ok it took me 20 minutes whereas it should have taken me 5, and wondering around for a few hours (yes, getting lost) it was time for my first Venetian tour, Streaty’s Venice food and wine night experience. I mean, I am quite the food and wine lover and Italy is famous for its high quality food and wine so let’s just start my stay in Italy off on the right foot hey! It would be a crime not to, right? I simply love food and booze. Something that if you’re a reader of this blog or know me personally, you already know quite well right!

You can read more about my food & wine experience in Venice right here.

It would have been about 9pm when the tour finished so time to explore Venice at night. With my mobile phone, google maps and headphones, there was absolutely no chance I’d get lost right?

Wrong!

Anyway, managed to somehow stumble across the Rialto Bridge, which is rather impressive at night. I went back the following day and did much prefer the night time view. Plus, there was slightly less people. Following on from that I slowly strolled through Cannaregio, over many of Venice’s famous bridges, peering into shops before settling in at a bar to sit out the front (it was a warm night) and have a glass of wine whilst people watching. Which is one of my favorite solo travel things to do. I did manage to find my way back to my hotel reasonably easy for a good nights sleep, aided by the few drinks I’d had on tour.

The next morning it was up early to try and get out exploring before the hordes of crowds descended upon Venice on my only full day there. Unfortunately, I wasn’t the only one who had that idea. As soon as I had found the Grand Canal, I was hit with an onslaught of people. Everywhere. Bugger it! There were so many people that getting over bridges was done at snails pace and the very narrow walkways you were shoulder to shoulder with people. Often, I had to move into a shop to get out of the way on oncoming foot traffic. CRAZY!!!!

My morning mission was to find my way to St Mark’s Square, have a squiz and visit the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica. But the crowds had beaten me to it, with long lines to get in I decided to skip seeing inside and just be happy with seeing from the outside. St Mark’s Square was a flourish of activity, music, performance and flags being waved everywhere. Wondering if this was normal for a Friday, I asked a local who could tell me it was Italy’s Independence Day AND their saint, St Mark’s day!

Yep, not just one reason for a day off but two. No bloody wonder there were so many people! Not to be deterred, after all I had almost not gone to Venice at all, I wondered around, people watched, drank coffee and then when it was time to eat.. Pizza!!! My first pizza in Italy! And boy did it not disappoint. It was actually huge and I knew I would not get through the whole thing, but hell I gave it a fair nudge.

After a bit more walking around, yes getting lost, some shopping, getting lost some more, looking in galleries, and sneaking an Aperitivo or two the afternoon had got away from me and it was time for dinner. This time… Pasta! Real Italian pasta, my favourite. I ate at Tre Archi which was right around the corner from Ca’ due Leonie. The restaurant is right on the water so it was lovely to sit outside and watch people go by whilst eating pasta and drinking Aperol spritz.

My third day in Venice was my last, and it was an early exit. Part of me wanted to stay and explore more, mostly I wanted to get out of there away from the crowds of tourists and off to Bologna. Venice truly is beautiful. It is stunning and it is unique. The locals are absolutely lovely and willing to get to know you or help you.

I am disappointed that I couldn’t stay longer but the sheer number of tourists was enough for me. Perhaps next time I go to Italy I will plan to go on the off season closer to winter (but not during) where the place is starting to quiet down. Maybe that will make for a much more pleasant experience.

I stayed at Ca’ Due Leoni while in Venice. You can read my review here