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Where is she off to next? A 2018 recap and plans for 2019

January 1, 2019October 28, 2022Adventure, Australia, Beaches, Cruise, Europe, Food, Hotels & Eateries, Leisure, New Zealand, Queenstown, Road Trips, Sightseeing, Sports & Activities, Travel, Uluru, Uncategorized, Wine admin 2 Comments

Firstly, happy new year to you all. It’s my first ever happy new year as a travel writer and man it makes my heart sing! Cheers to that!

I started this in July 2018 after some gentle persuasion from family and friends and let me just say, it’s been an absolute treat. Not only is this giving me an opportunity to write about my favourite thing to do, travel, I am actually writing. And taking photos. And learning. Being creative on some level has always been at the core of who I am and what I want to do with my life.

It’s been ace! And there is so much more to come.

I woke this morning on New Year’s Day with mixed emotion. One of my closest life allies and closest of friends was already up in the sky embarking on a new life adventure by moving from Melbourne to Seattle. I felt like I missed her already yet I was so bloody excited for her new path in life.

And we are up! Heli Glenorchy — Hannah & I in New Zealand… Good luck on your next life chapter darling. See you soon x

It got me to thinking about the past year, 2018. Personally, it was hideous on a lot of levels. No need to dwell on the past year, those who follow the blog know. But while it was literally the worst year of my life, I still managed to find it a humbling and life changing year in its own right. One in which I’ve learnt some extremely valuable life lessons and found a finer appreciation for life and living the best one imaginable. Lessons in which with gratitude and love I chose to embody going forward. I’ve dropped people pleasing and saying yes when I have wanted to say no for doing what I want on my terms, basically living my life more authentically and true to self.

And this means change. Professionally, personally and creatively. Some subtle, some huge and really significant and whilst it is scary I am so fucking excited! 2019 I absolutely and unapologetically choose me without any guilt.

And more travel of course.

And so the heart sings some more!

Nothing gives me more of a thrill that being in a plane… or helicopter so it seems

But back to last year. 2018 saw me focus on travel that was more localised. I ventured to Uluru, Northern Territory for the first time and it was monumental on all levels. So much so I really want to go back sooner rather than later. I think it was 2 weeks after my mum passed away that I fulfilled a promise to her and booked my flights and accommodation. At the time (and still now) my heart was completely shattered, I either felt a complete mess or just numb, so jumping on a plane seemed just about the best thing I could do to remove myself from all responsibilities of the last few years. Finding peace and connection in the middle of Australia is my account of one of the most insightful journeys I have had to date.

In July I headed off to New Zealand for the first time ever with a good friend of mine Hannah. While we didn’t stray too far from Queenstown, it was a beautiful holiday, one spent with a great friend, eating glorious foods, and adventuring around the area. Milford Sound was a huge highlight of this trip, the views are truly next level amazing and we got to see it all 3 ways, via bus, boat and unexpectedly via helicopter. You can read more about our Milford Sound adventure here. We had heard that food and wine in the area was sensational but nothing prepared us for exactly how amazing it was. Huge notable mention to fabulous Ferg burger, Ferg bakery, Rata, Bunker and the Gibbston Valley Winery and Cheese Shop. If food is your thing, get mouth wateringly jealous by reading this.

Queenstown, New Zealand — How stunning is Queenstown right?

Ship faced at 20 knots; a booze filled family adventure on the high sees details a little family get together on honour of my late mum for her birthday at the end of September. This trip saw me join my brother, his wife and numerous members of Mum’s family for a cruise off the coast of Queensland. This P&O cruise on the Pacific Dawn was to celebrate what would have been mums 64^th birthday and didn’t we do her proud. Well I hope so anyway. It was a bit of a booze cruise in the end, a few of us got sea sick (not I for I own a stomach of steel) but we all had a really great time being together. Especially that last day bar crawl. Ouch! Never knew there were so many bars on board cruise ships!

So… 2018 recap done and dusted, you may ask what is in store for The Bright Eyed Explorer in 2019?

Shit Loads.

It was only this morning I started planning my first ever trip to the US in October/November. I am off to Europe again in April and have done stuff all organising for that trip but the US trip, feel like I’m all organised!

So at Easter this year I’ll be off to Europe again. Landing in Rome on Good Friday I am hightailing it out of Catholic Rome at the most religious time of year and heading to Munich. Swapping religion for beer halls and pork knuckle sounds just about right to me. I’ll be in Munich for 4 days before heading to Salzburg to sample a little taste of what Austria has to offer.

Where I have stalled in organising this trip is… I only have 3 weeks and was thinking of heading from Salzburg to Slovenia and doing a bit of lake bled, and a touch of Ljubljana. But the more I think about Italy, and pasta, and Prosecco, and pizza, and wine, and gelato and um just Italy, the more I am compelled to skip the Slovenia side trip and just launching head first (stomach first) into northern and central Italy. Honestly, tough life choices I know. But what a good dilemma to have.

I am currently taking submissions/help/advice for my 2 weeks in Italy, but I do know that I will be doing Venice, Bologna, Florence and Rome. It’s the in between bits that I am unsure of. Do I do Cinque Terre? Pisa? Milan? Parma? Verona? I definitely want to do a bit of lounging around in Tuscany. With wine of course. If you have any insight for me, I am so interested in hearing your advice.

In October I’ll be heading to the US for the first time EVER! Didn’t think I’d be as excited as I am, it’s weird this disconnection I have had with the US until now. Maybe it’s the fascination I have with Europe? And Asia? Maybe like, New Zealand, I’ve stupidly felt it would be all too similar? But hey there’s nothing like one of your closest mates moving there to fuel some interest.

This morning I planned this trip all out. Land in LA, spend a few days with another close mate from Melbourne who happens to be on holidays at the same time. Then meet the friend living in the US in San Fran for a few days of exploring then heading back to her place in Seattle for a week and half. Being a teenager of the 90s and a huge lover of ‘Grunge’, Seattle has always been on my US list of must sees, but since knowing my friend was moving there, I’ve learnt more about the awesome food, coffee, booze, art and culture of Seattle so needless to say I am hell excited about going there.

While my friend is working, I plan on an overnighter in Portland Oregon, and on one of the weekends we will head into Canada to Vancouver. Ticking another country off my list. After Seattle, I’m solo tripping to Alaska! YAY! The more I learn about Alaska the more fucking excited I am. Glaciers, fjords, micro-breweries, off the beaten path stuff. It’s so me to a tea. BUT the biggest draw card and reason why I’m heading to Alaska, is the chance to see the northern lights again!!!

OMG I AM GOING TO SEE THE AURORA BOREALIS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!

(Speaking of the Northern Lights, I promise that I will have blog posts of my trip to Norway in 2017 up on the blog VERY soon… watch this space).

I’ve also realised that I really have not seen a lot of my home state Victoria. I mean I did grow up in the country and am very familiar with Ballarat and Portland, as well as Geelong, Port Fairy, Warnambool, Hamilton, Buningyong, Echuca and Wangaratta. But it is hard to believe that at 41 I have not yet seen the Great Ocean Road. What an absolute crime, I am actually quite embarrassed to admit that one. I’d also love to do a trip to Lake Tyrell to take gorgeous pics of the salt lake as well as other areas such as Lake Eildon, the Grampians, Bright and the Victorian Alps.

Time for some weekend road trips with my trusty DSLR me thinks.

And speaking of more local trips. Midway through writing this post I got side tracked (happens a lot) but received confirmation from a dear friend who is able to dog sit for me in a few weeks so it is off the Gold Coast I go for Australia Day weekend. Flights booked and all! Yay, I finally get to see my bro Richie and his wife Jas in their new home after too many months apart. Also ticking off the list for this trip is seeing his new band ‘Awake in Time’. I am VERY excited for this!

Before I forget, watch this space as I’ll be announcing a small collaboration with two other travel bloggers Matt Kepnes of Nomadic Matt and Kristin Addis of Be My Travel Muse. A piece I wrote on overcoming my fear of travelling solo will be featured with some other solo travellers. Such an honour to be a part of this one as both bloggers have been such a huge influence for me with their combined 14 plus years of experience. These are the bloggers that inspire me to be better and to work harder at what I am doing so it is an honour to be included.

Also, I recently came runner up in a competition to meet my master run by the guys at Red Zed. I had to write 250 words on my business master and what I would gain from meeting them. I submitted the entry on a tram on the way home from work so really have no idea what I wrote but apparently it was enough to get runner up placing and $1000 AUD. All goes into the travel account so I am so grateful for that opportunity. If I had of won, I would have been meeting Kristin Addis from Be My Travel Muse but the runner up placing was awesome considering I didn’t think my entry would even be considered.

So now I have blabbed on and on about my travels, where are you off to this year?

Do you have some plans set in place or a trip you are thinking about? If you do, I would LOVE to hear all about it.

Happy new year & safe travels for 2019.

S x

The Bright Eyed Explorer — Summer in Melbourne means hammock hangs…..

Ship faced at 20 knots: A booze filled family adventure on the high seas.

November 27, 2018October 28, 2022Adventure, Australia, Beaches, Cruise, Food, Leisure, Sightseeing, Travel admin 2 Comments

“Let’s all go on a cruise” she said. “I am in, it will be AMAZING!!” the one on the left said. “Oh yeah, we had sooooo much fun on the last one” the short one pipes in. And with that it was set in concrete. Done. Organised. Swiftly. Without any second guessing.

What?

What the hell had I just committed to? A cruise? Me? Shae the self-confessed Euro lover? The experienced South East Asian explorer? World adventurer, land lover, plane and train junkie… The list goes on. A cruise? Like on a boat? Like on a boat that sails on the sea? Like on water? Oh no, surely not. Surely, I can spend my travel money in a better way?

With 18 family members?

Has my brain suddenly decided after 41 years to depart my body and fly off into some distant land?

Look you’d be right in thinking I’d lost my mind but let me back track a little before you pass judgement upon my good self and the state of my mental health.

You see, those people in that very first sentence of this story were some of my dearly loved Aunties. My mum’s sisters. And if you’ve been following my blog of late, you’d know that Mum is no longer with us. In fact, in February this year cancer made an angel of the biggest legend of a human, my mum.

Mum was diagnosed with ovarian cancer in early December 2015 not long after getting back from her first ever cruise with some of her family, her first holiday in 20 years. Cruel twist of fate hey. Let that one sink in while you second guess why holidays should be a priority in your life.

Cheeky mum on her first ever cruise. She looks so happy here

She had a ball. I remember picking her up from Melbourne airport and for the 20kms to her house, Mum talked non-stop about how much fun she’d had. I could see the excitement in her eyes and hear it in her voice. She looked and sounded like a new woman, invigorated, inspired and ready for more adventures. For me it felt like Mum finally GOT travel. Finally GOT why I chose to invest my time and money in travel and experiences rather than a mortgage. Honestly, it had been years since I’d seen her so happy and shit did that make me smile. That was to be her last real holiday. Only a week after Mum got back from her cruise she got the cancer diagnosis and that is when all our lives changed forever.

The day after we said goodbye to mum (it was massive, my mum was one of 12 kids so lots of extended family) while we were all still together, the cruise plan was hatched. You see, we are a family that sticks together, we may fall out on occasion (it’s never bad) and there may be disagreements but we all pull together to support each other and this was possibly the biggest moment in our lives since Pa passed away (back when I was 13) that we all needed to band together. We were hurting, grief had entered our lives and took one of the best in a shitty fucked up kind of way so we needed to do something to honour her, to celebrate mum’s life, to be together, and to breathe again.

From memory I think it was my Aunty Cathy who suggested the cruise. Cathy and her husband, Phil (legends) are seasoned cruisers so it was decided that they would do the organising and before you knew it, 18 people had committed, rooms were allocated, and deposits paid. We were off on a family adventure on P&Os Pacific Dawn for 3 nights of cruising out into the Pacific Ocean before heading back into the port of Brisbane. This particular cruise was a ‘Comedy Cruise’ ha, I knew our family were quite funny, but there was no need to rename the cruise for our benefit ;-).

I was bunking in with one of mum’s youngest sisters, my Aunty Trish. Trish is only a few years older than me and a bit of a lush and gawd do I love her for it. I’ve lived with her previously so we would get on perfectly fine. Trish was, after all the person who introduced the younger version of me to much more refined drinking when I was 18. She was literally the perfect person for me to bunk in with. My brother and his wife ended up being about 1km away (not really but it felt like that) at the mid-front of the boat while a Trish and I were at the very end of the boat. Like the last room on level 9 while the rest of the family were splattered around near us.

On the day of boarding we all managed to find our allocated rooms and by 12.45pm I think it may have been my incredibly gifted for all things fun, Aunty Angela and her as gifted hubby Ross who sniffed out the only adults’ bar on board, Oasis (coincidently at the end of the boat, a level up from our room – winning). By 3.30pm when we had the ‘very important’ safety briefing, it would be safe to say that 70% of our family were well on our way to sweet drunken bliss. That particular day, our first day on board was also the AFL grand final (Australian Rules football for you non-aussies) so we managed to find a quiet spot at the on-board casino of all places to watch (ahem scream at the telly some of you) West Coast beat Collingwood. I’ll never get the picture of my sister-in-law’s joy of the Magpies los out of my head!

Dancing the night away
When the weather was good

The first night was spent at the aptly named ‘Pantry’ which is a buffet of all different nationalities. Cruise ships are renowned for mass gastro outbreaks so obviously for that very reason, food is not a free for all, everything is served by staff. Generally buffet food rings to me bland and tasteless meals with limp salads and crap desserts, but not at the ‘Pantry’ on P&Os Pacific Dawn. No, sir, not here! I don’t know how many times I ate the spaghetti Bolognese on this cruise but call me super impressed. Other food options were really quite good considering the mass amount of people being served. The only real negative for me when it came to food and drinks was lining up for 20 minutes in the mornings for my much-needed double shot caffeine hit.

Later that night we ended up in the Orient Bar partaking in a spot of music trivia. Considering we are a family of music lovers, had a musician and an ex band manager in our group we were a shoe in to win and seriously we did win if honesty counts for something (meh there was one question that clearly was answered by Mr Google by on opposing team). To commiserate/celebrate our second placing, unhinged dancing, singing and general hijinks preceded a pretty crude but hilarious Comedy Show.

Our second day cruising was disappointingly, a shocker weather wise and a few of us had been stricken with a bit of sea sickness so while some spent time in bed, most of us headed off to do our own thing indoors for a few hours before meeting up at the front of the boat, at the very tip, in yep you guessed it, another bar. But before drinks could commence a few of us started the day in the gym, some went on walks, while I found a quiet spot by myself to sit and have some reflection and writing time as this was of course, what would have been Mum’s 64^th birthday. Only natural that in moments like these that emotion can bring tears to the surface so with that, just before I broke into an epic sob session and just as I was looking for a dignity saving escape route, over walks two living angles in the form of Aunties with the long-missed sun at their backs. It was literally a perfect moment. I love being Ms Independent, solo world traveller, strong-as-all-hell-I-got-this-shit-sorted-woman-of-the-world, but… I just didn’t realise just how much I needed people, my family, until then. Thank you Clare and Colleen.

Later that night the entire family was booked in at the Waterfront Restaurant for mum’s birthday celebration. Unfortunately, dinner was a bit of a fizzier on account of about half of us battling the dreaded sea sickness, but in a roundabout way, mum managed to save the night. You see sneaky me (some might say, clever) managed to bring along some of mum’s chemo anti-nausea drugs (yes yes I should have thrown them out, but ya know, I didn’t and for good reason) and within no time people started to feel a little better. A few of us got an early night while the rest headed off to another late-night comedy show before succumbing to sleep in readiness for the next day…

The next day? The last day? What a day! From what I remember at least anyway. You remember that bar we went to the day prior, the one at the very tip of the boat? Well on the second day of the cruise, our first time at that bar and after witnessing a flash mob (why do people still do that?) we started to count just how many bars there were in total on the boat. And by doing that count, someone, I can’t remember who exactly, suggested a bar crawl for our last day. A plan was conceived, put into action and by 1pm the next day we were back at that bar at the tip of the boat ready to drink ourselves into sweet bliss.

Rules were (cause with our lot there needs to be some rules):

1 drink in one bar – half an hour maximum time spent in the bar before moving onto the next (pffft some of us managed more than one drink)
One shot to buy in for every bar you’ve missed
One extra drink for one person (only) in each bar for a family member on her own cancer journey

Simple!

One person’s collection from one of the early bars
Early days! Not posting the end result photo!

After visiting 10 bars, 2 other alcohol serving areas on the boat and revisiting a few more, sneaking in more drinks in our half hour slot at each bar, and general crazy hi jinx over gawd knows how many hours, it was suggested in good spirit that our family should have an annual bar crawl to celebrate mum’s life on her birthday. Considering she wasn’t a drinker (but her children clearly are) I think my brother and I are down with that, she loved a decent celebration after all. I’ll go with it for sure. I love drinks. Sorry mum. Ah it was sure a night to remember. There were a few tears (me mostly) but plenty of laughs and happy times. Mum would have been (and probably was) right amongst it all. She was after all an instigator of fun.

So. Did I have a good time on my first cruise? Yes! Of course, I did. If you are thinking of doing a cruise, I would. It really is a different kind of adventure and one of which will always be what you make of it. Like any form of travel. Just do it. Like all travel inspiration, don’t wait to do it. Just remember when you get off the boat it is going to take you a few days to get your land legs back and things will feel weird. Yes. It is true! I struggled for three days. Would I do it again? Yes, but not for a while and if I did it would be out to see something like an island or other things in the ocean….

But irrespective of would I do it again was not the point of THIS cruise. This was to celebrate the life of an outstanding, firecracker, cheeky, generous and beautiful woman who happened to be my gorgeous mum. I think we did a bloody good job of honouring her. Yes, it was a bit boozy for some of us, but in true family spirit we were together and having a great time.

On the first night of the cruise my brother and I snuck away from everyone else and stood at the back of the boat watching the sunset as the boat left the port of Brisbane. It was real pretty. One of those catch ya in the feels moments. A token moment of admiring natural beauty and our own sentimentalities on such a pivotal occasion. Arm in arm, tears in our eyes we vowed to make this a beautiful and fun journey, for mum. Gawd I fucken love that kid (sorry swearing not sorry really).

There were many times on the cruise when I stood back on all the frivolity, all the laughter and all the noise to take stock. To look at each and every one of my family enjoying themselves and I could feel mum next to me saying ‘we did good kid’. You see family was at the core of mums whole entire essence. Mum loved her family more than anything, her children, me and the bro, were her life. Her whole entire family was what fired her and gave her the most joy in her life. Wherever she was in the universe over those 3 days I know it was a whirlwind of amazing for her as much as it was for me.

So, as mum did when she arrived home from her cruise, with the spirit of travel racing through her heart and soul, so did I. I don’t think that feeling of post-holiday elation ever leaves a person. That excitement should never die, that glow should not fade. So, there really is only one thing a person can do to top a holiday.

Book another holiday. And that I did.

For my mum Mary, Richie, Jasmin, Tricia, Angela, Ross, CAtherine Rose, Phil, Michael, Helen, Clare, Colleen, Narelle, Luke, Nikki, Daniel & kids.

Thank you x

To book through P&O visit their website

Outback Pioneer Hotel

Located within the Ayers Rock Resort complex at Yulara, the Outback Pioneer Hotel is a practical choice for the budget conscious without compromising on comfort and amenities. Staying anywhere within the Ayers Rock Resort is considerably expensive by Australian standards and for the cost per night of a room the Outback Pioneer Hotel is nothing overly flash, but, and there are a lot of buts, it does maintain the outback charm that one may expect from these parts of Australia. A sense of authenticity that is lost in those fancy places just up the road. And that is where I was won over.

That and the fact that the outback pioneer hotel has the only pub in town within the hotel itself (more on that later).

The complex hosts both hotel accommodation and hostel style rooms with up to 4 beds. I stayed in a hotel room that was roomy, well maintained and had everything I needed for my stay, including much needed air conditioning. The bed was super comfortable especially after being outdoors and hiking for a good part of the day. Bathroom was equip with local hair and body products that were really nice to use.

Check in was simple and the staff very friendly. They correspond with tour operators on your behalf and know well in advance what each guest will be doing. One of my tours was cancelled before I arrived and with the reception staff being pre-warned, they attempted to find be different alternatives without me even having to ask.

There is a restaurant where breakfast is buffet style and trust me there is plenty of food! Normally it’s quite expensive (approx $30) but reception will tell you upon check in to grab a voucher from them for any breakfasts at a cost of $15. Bargain! I did only have one dinner at the restaurant and it was both as pleasant as it was filling. Service was exceptional.

The hotel has a pool, gift shop, games centre and plenty of spaces to relax (including the pub). The free town bus is right out the front and departs every 20 minutes to take you the loop to the supermarket, gift shops, cafes, tourist centre and other hotels. If you’re booked on any tours you’re picked up right out the front. All of this runs without any hiccups it really is all too easy.

Now for the pub. It’s the heart of the Outback Pioneer. Right smack bang in the centre of the complex, this open air pub has plenty of outback character, hosts a café, pool tables and plenty of space to pull up a chair to sit back and relax. Of a night it seems unless you’re on a tour everyone converges on the pub for an unwind, to meet new friends and to listen to whomever is performing on the small stage that night. The only issue with the pub is the cost of drinks! $40 for a 6 pack of beer to takeaway is beyond what this beer loving chick would ever want to pay, but when it’s your only option one has to suck up the expense and just go with it. So for the sake of beer and holidays I did, of course.

For my money I would not have stayed anywhere else. When you break a holiday to Uluru area down, you spend most of your day and often night out exploring. It’s not the kind of banana lounge at the beach kind of holiday (beaches being 1000 kms away) so my advice is to keep it simple in Uluru and stay somewhere that is reasonably priced but is comfortable so that you can spend your hard earned dollars on tours and seeing the landscape. The Outback Pioneer Hotel captured a place in my heart, and will be where I stay the next time I’m there.

To book your stay at the Outback Pioneer Hotel click here.

Uluru – Desert Awakenings Tour

In my opinion, if you are a first timer seeing Uluru then the Desert Awakenings tour is definitely where you should start. Yes, if you have a car you can get there yourself but what you miss out on by doing that is the experienced tour guides who give you so much invaluable information, geological history of the area as well as and if not most importantly, the traditional Aboriginal Dream Time stories associated with Uluru. That in itself is an experience that just should not be missed. Ever!

You’re picked up from your hotel in the wee hours of the morning, before the sun rises, and whisked away on a 4WD tour truck that requires a step ladder to enter. Yep, this beast was huge, but obviously well needed when you look at some of the roads and sand dunes it drives over.

First stop is a secluded sand dune to watch golden hour. The sky turning from black, to dark blue, to light blue, to a vivid red as the sun comes up over the horizon. And this my friends is where you capture your first glimpse of Uluru in the morning. Bathed in the sunlight, you witness the rock change colour from dark brown, to purple. It really is a spectacular sight at times I had a hard time deciding whether to look at the ever changing sky or the ever changing colours of the rock. And then there was Kata Tjuta behind me, so spoilt for choice! Some perfect photo opportunities in this moment for those with dslr cameras.

Breakfast is served on top of the sand dune and let me tell you, it’s a beautiful mix of coffee, bacon and egg rolls and traditional damper with indigenous herbs. Yum

From there it’s a climb back into the truck to the base of Uluru itself. An early start to hopefully beat the hordes of tourists and school groups that never seem to end. Firstly we are driven part way around the rock, to a base where the guide allows us time to ourselves to get up close and personal with Uluru. And this is where you can see those who chose to climb Uluru look like tiny little ants bent over at the hip moving ever so slowly. We are pre-warned about the deaths that have occurred both on the rock and after climbing the rock, but most importantly we are told of the sacred significance of Uluru to the local Indigenous community, what the area means to them and why people are encouraged not to climb the rock. The Australian government has banned climbing the rock as of October 2019 and together with the locals are encouraging people not to climb, yet amazingly people still do. I don’t get it really, and find it quite insulting to the locals.

After climbing back on the bus, we are driven around a side of the rock where we are asked not to take photos. Reason being that the rock itself has markings on the face of it that are significant to ‘man’ (as opposed to ‘woman’) history in the Dreamtime so if photos are shared online or anywhere else it spells trouble.

The drive around the rock is approximately 10 kms of gorgeousness. We stop in at the Mutitjulu Waterhole which is at the base of Uluru and whilst it’s a dry sunny day, you get a real understanding of how this area can flood in the heavy rains. Not too far from the Mutitjulu Waterhole is a small cave area which houses some rock art that dates back over 5000 years. Incredibly in the 1950’s some of this ancient art was hosed off by the white man, for what reason I don’t know but it still leaves me horrified and deeply saddened.

We have an hour to spare before heading back to our respective hotels and this is spent in the Uluru/Kata Tjuta cultural centre. There’s a historical display and movie to watch as well as a café, art shop and gift shop. The art shop is definitely worth a visit as on any given day an artist will be working away and this is mesmerising to watch.

As mentioned previously, if you’re new to the area I would highly advise doing this tour. The tour guides study bachelor degrees in aboriginal history in order to be able to take people out so it is well worth sitting in on listening To the stories of natural and cultural significance. It’s really easy to get caught up into listening to the Dreamtime stories and marvel in the geological nature of the area. One thing that really caught me off-guard was how deeply I would feel about Uluru and it’s people. I really don’t know if you would get that feeling without a great understanding of the significance of Uluru to this country and it’s people.

To book the Desert Awakenings tour click here.

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Finding Peace & Connection in the Middle of Australia

July 12, 2018October 28, 2022Australia, Hotels & Eateries, Leisure, Road Trips, Sightseeing, Travel, Uluru admin

A dedication to mother earth and my own mother, Mary.

I’d always considered a trip to Uluru (Ayres Rock) and surrounds to be something that I would do when I was much older than what I am now. You know, it’s the kind of tourist destination that school groups, retired people or international tourists visit. Besides I still had the rest of the world to conquer didn’t I?

However, a series of really shitty life changing events over the last two years drew me closer and closer the magnetic heart of this great expansive country. I felt the deepest of yearning to just be there, to find a connection to the deep red earth, the spiritual heart of my own country.

A bit of a back story…

My darling mother was diagnosed with stage 4 (terminal) Ovarian Cancer in early December 2015. Being told that she had anywhere between a year to 5 years left of her life depending on how operations and chemotherapy went was a major blow to all of us, the utmost shittiest heartbreaking news I have ever heard.

Over two years mum underwent numerous types of chemotherapy treatment that was hideously awful in so many ways.

In this period of time there were over 20 emergency visits and hospital stays, ambulance rides and extreme sickness, but throughout all of this, never once did mum lose her ability to laugh or to fight as hard as she could. I only saw her cry twice. I cried lots! She is simply the strongest person I know and big yay to me being her daughter!!

My beautiful mother fought this terrible disease for over 2 years before passing away on Monday 19^th February 2018. I can even tell you the precise time as I was there with her holding her hand.

As her primary medical carer, her life organiser, quite often her ambulance driver, nurse, cook, cleaner and emotional support person and I had a lot on my hands and often my emotional well-being and health suffered. For me it wasn’t a case of looking after myself but making sure that mum got through each day the best she could. It was my role of daughter that was and will always be the most significant and most cherished position I’ve held in my entire life. And in the capacity of daughter I got to ask my mum many things in the last months and weeks that she was alive. You name it, I asked it. And I voice recorded as much as I could. While I can’t listen to those recordings just yet (it’s too soon) the most significant thing that stood out to me was that mum really wished she had travelled more. Canada, Bali, New Zealand and Uluru being the places that captivated her interest more than anything, so in that moment she urged me to travel to those places for her. Starting with Uluru. A promise was made and I so intended on keeping it.

Always smiling and being cheeky!

I have been to Bali numerous times throughout my life and Canada was a bit too far out of reach for me this year, so with those options off the table 2 weeks after mum’s funeral I booked a solo trip to Uluru (2 weeks after that I booked flights to Queenstown, New Zealand yay).

Uluru was one of the easiest trips for me to plan. For the first time in probably 15 years I let a travel company do all the arranging and booking for me. All I had to do was book my flights (Thanks Jetstar for having a sale at the time) and choose what accommodation and activities I wanted. Trips to Uluru can be done in a few ways:

Flying directly to Yulara (Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin fly direct)
Flying to Alice Springs and driving the 460kms to Uluru
Driving from wherever in Australia

Accommodation is also varied from staying in Alice springs and doing the daily drive (that’s a bloody long day in my book), or staying locally at the resort town Yulara at the Ayres Rock Resort complex. The Ayres Rock Resort owns a few properties based on affordability, including:

Ayres Rock Camping Ground (budget – you can bring a tent or campervan)
Outback Pioneer Lodge (Hostel style accommodation – lots of school groups here)
Outback Pioneer Hotel (3 & half Star)
Emu Walk Apartments (4 star)
Desert Gardens Hotel (4 and half star)
Sails in the Desert (5 star)
Longitude 131 (mega fucking expensive but looks amazing)

As much as a night at Longitude 131 would have been a welcomed luxury, I unfortunately had not won tattslotto so I opted to stay at the Outback Pioneer Hotel. I’d read some favourable reviews on Trip Advisor and honestly, being out and about exploring during the day all I really needed was a place to shower and rest my head over night. Plus, and this was a big one for me, the Outback Pioneer Hotel houses the only pub in town. So really that’s a no brainer right. (Read my review of the Outback Pioneer Hotel Here).

The next thing, and this was the hardest part of organising this trip, was deciding upon which activities I wanted to do. I only had 4 days to fit in as much as I could and there are so many options from active walking tours, helicopter flights, camel rides, gourmet dinners, night sky tours, cultural experiences, aboriginal art galleries and more. For the full list of activities click here.

A tour of Uluru was number 1 on my list and I wanted to do this with a guide as I’d heard they are filled with a lot of really great and valuable information based on Aboriginal culture and stories from the dreamtime as well as geological information. You can read my review of the Uluru tour here.

Also high on my list was Kata Tjuta (otherwise known as the Olgas). I’ve had quite a few friends that had been to Kata Tjuta tell me that the place is truly special. That it has a spiritually connected feeling about it that can’t be explained. After the last few years, Kata Tjuta was exactly what I needed.

Nothing prepares you for seeing Uluru for the first time. I didn’t know what to expect and I guess didn’t put much value on how seeing the rock would affect me. I was utterly speechless!! And that takes a lot really. The moment you get your first glimpse of Uluru your breath is simply taken away. It is what you imagine it to be but so much more, and its just so much of a contrast in comparison from anywhere in Victoria (where I live). And it is HUGE. I knew it was but until you actually see Uluru you really dont get the pure scale of the rock itself. And there off into the distance stands Kata Tjuta, even taller than Uluru. I was so pleased with myself that I booked a window seat on the flight. Winning!

Everything runs like a well-oiled machine at Yulara, from the buses that transport you to and from the airport and ferry you around town, to the staff in the resorts. And relaxed! There’s no rushing about, even the flies are slow there (and let me tell you there are plenty slow ones especially in the hotter months). So I was bused from the airport straight to the Outback Pioneer Hotel, checked in with enough time to explore the complex (yes including the pub) before being bused out to ‘A night at the Field of Light’.

The night includes a really yummy dinner as you watch the sun set over the rock and then a walk along the Field of Light open-air exhibition. I managed to meet up with two sassy Melbourne ladies in their 70s (I’d met them on the plane from Melbourne & coincidently they were in the room next to me at the resort – stalkers), an awesome couple from Geralton in their late 40s and a chick from Melbourne who had brought along her French friends. Plied with an abundance of alcohol, we ate, drank, laughed, told stories and stumbled in the dark along the field of light. Was certainly a night to remember.

The next morning the alarm went off at 4am for my next tour, the Sunrise Awakening tour. And yes, I did have a slight hangover. Good one Shae!! But was not missing my chance to get up close and personal with Uluru.

The tour starts early as we were driven out to a sand dune to watch the sunrise over the rock. My oh my those colours I will not forget, nor the quiet stillness of the place. After sunrise we were driven to the base of the rock and had a chance to wonder off on our own for an hour or so. This is where I was able to have some quiet time and lay my hands on this sacred site and let mum know I was finally there. The tour included more highlights which you can read here.

That same night I was booked on the Outback Sky Journeys Astro Tour but decided to spend the night in the pub with my new friends from Geralton. The pub is actually an outdoor pub and as the sky is literally free of light pollution we were able to witness the rising of the milky way in the night sky, all whilst having a few drinks and people watching.

Sleep in on morning 3 as my helicopter ride had been cancelled. So I decided to spend the day walking into the main part of Yulara and visiting Maruku Arts Market Place and the Visitors Centre. After lunch I treated myself to an hour and half massage at the Red Ochre Spa, Sails in the Desert resort. Pretty sure I fell asleep and probably entertained the masseuse with my blissed out snoring.

My last and final tour for this trip was out to Kata Tjuta. Probably the one I had been looking forward to the most. After being bused the 40 minutes out to Kata Tjuta and after going to a viewing platform to take photos, we were able to hike through one of the many valleys as a group. It took approximately 45 minutes to walk through as the terrain is pretty rough and rocky. Me being one of the clumsiest people you’ll ever meet I really had to be careful navigating may way through Kata Tjuta but happy to say I came out unscathed!

On the way back to the bus, the guide gave us the opportunity to have some alone time so I let the rest of the group pass and found a rock to sit on and sat in silence. Listening, reflecting. Naturally thoughts turned to my mum and just when the tears started to flow from the sadness of losing her and missing her so much, the wind picked up and howled through the vastness of the valley. It really was so loud. I could feel my mum all around me and in that moment I felt that she was there with me and always will be. I couldn’t help but smile and thank her for showing up when I needed her the most and found myself feeling so fortunate to have some sort of connection to her.

Kata Tjuta is such a wonderfully connected place where you can’t help but feel overwhelmed by its beauty, it’s history and the peace it brings. It really was what I needed.

I really didn’t expect to fall in love with the Uluru/Kata Tjuta area. But I did. Four days was nowhere near enough time to truly immerse myself in learning more about Uluru, the area and its people. I most definitely will be going back, this time taking a lot more time out to take it slow and meet some of the indigenous community. As great as all the organised tours were, I feel that next time I go to Uluru there will be less of that and more of just discovering.

I will be forever grateful that in a time where I was feeling overwhelming dark and emotionally exhausted Uluru was a bit of a spiritual saviour and mood uplifter for me. The place gave me a sense of purpose, of belonging to a country that, for most parts, is magnificent and of course, a connection to my beautiful mum. With all my years of travel I don’t know if I have ever been to a place where I have felt such connection to people, land and spirit. Uluru gave me all that and so much much more!

Yulara

The township of Yulara is approximately a 20-minute drive from Uluru. Kata Tjuta is about a 40-minute drive from Yulara. Both are situated inside the Uluru/Kata Tjuta National Park which is protected land that covers approximately 130 square kilometres (500 plus square miles). The Uluru/Kata Tjuta National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town Yulara was built in the mid 70s as a way to curb the unmonitored tourism that had built up around the base of Uluru. The town itself is small but accommodates all needs and has all amenities. The tourist centre is fabulous for booking any tours and the art galleries are a must.

Uluru / Kata Tjuta

The area around Uluru was settled thousands of years ago, and although it was ‘discovered’ by the white man in the 1800s, Uluru and Aboriginal culture are very much entwined today. In fact, Uluru is Australia’s spiritual heart. Aboriginal culture dictates that Uluru was formed by ancestral beings during Dreamtime.

Anangu own all of Uluru and Kata Tjuta and lease it back to Parks Australia to be jointly managed as a national park. This arrangement first came into place in October 1985, in an historic moment known today as handback.

Where the hell is Paraburdoo? My humble beginnings as a traveller.

June 11, 2018October 28, 2022Australia, Beaches, Leisure, Road Trips, Travel admin

I was born in a town called Bunningyong, approximately 20 kms from Ballarat in country Victoria, Australia. At the tender age of 3 my very brave pioneering parents, Mary & Peter decided to pack up our little family (at that point I was an only child) and head off in the search of endless sunshine over in the wild Wild West of Australia to a tiny little outback town called Paraburdoo in the Pilbara area of Western Australia.

My father had previously spent a few years in the iron ore mines in Dampier in the 70s before heading home to Ballarat and marrying Mum. His love for that area was so great that he somehow managed to convince Mum that uprooting our family to this far off distant place that no one in Ballarat had ever heard of was a fabulous idea. Go dad!!

Dad was from a family of 5, Mum was one of 12 kids (yes! Irish Catholics, obviously no tv!!). On my mothers side no one in her family had ever left Ballarat at that point, not even for a holiday so you can only imagine how that news went down. I’m sure there were plenty of wtf moments.

I remember vaguely the day we left Ballarat, our entire home packed up and put on a truck with everyone from both sides of the family gathering to see us off and wish us well on our new adventure, not knowing when we’d be seen next. So off we drove west towards the sun taking in north west Victoria, driving into south Australia, into Western Australia over the seemingly endless Nullabour Plain to Perth where we then turned the car north and headed up the majestic coast of Western Australia. Finally reaching our new home in Paraburdoo a very long 5 days later.

For those unfamiliar with the vastness of Australia a trip from Ballarat (an hour west of Melbourne) to Paraburdoo took us approximately 5 days of solid driving. And by solid driving I mean, only stopping the car for wee stops, a quick bite to eat or to rest our heads overnight. Ballarat to Perth is approximately 3300kms (or 2000 miles) and Perth to Paraburdoo another 1500kms (or just under 1000 Miles). Yep! Australia is large! That’s pretty close to 5000kms. My mum and dad are legends for doing that drive, one that our family did a few times after our move up.

We arrived in Paraburdoo tired and weary with a huge case of cabin/car fever. Only to find out that all of our belongings hadn’t made the trip and was stuck in Perth. There had been flooding at some part of the journey that we somehow had missed on our way up, so we literally had nothing except what we’d brought with us. The roads in that part of the country being quite unsafe when flooding occurred. The Paraburdoo community rallied together to welcome the newcomers (the fresh blood) and suddenly we were equip with all that was needed to start our new life in the sun.

That trip obviously I don’t remember much at all, you know, being a 3 year old and all so I’ve relied upon my dads memories to tell most of that part of this journey.

Paraburdoo is a classic outback Australian town built in the 70s for the purpose of the booming iron ore mines. The dirt is red. The deepest red you can find on earth, it’s the iconic colour of the Australian outback and trust me, it gets in everything! When it rained, everything was red sludge. We experienced the after effects of many tropical cyclones, the days were hot as hell and in winter, surprisingly the nights were cold. Well as cold as it can be that far up north. A huge contrast to our life in Ballarat!

We lived in Paraburdoo for close to 7 years and in that time my life as an only child ended as we welcomed the arrival of my brother Richie.

My grandparents on both sides made the trip up and we had visits from other Ballarat family. I remember vividly a visit from dads brother and his wife. Memorable for a trip out to a waterhole where us kids, mum and Aunty were happily frolicking around in the water and the brothers thought it a brilliant idea to throw rocks at a sleeping water snake! Well the snake got so pissed off for having its sleep interrupted that it dove into the water at high speeds at the unsuspecting water frolickers. I’ve never seen my parents move so fast!

Life in such a small (the population was approximately 2000 people) but tight knit community of people who had an adventurous zest for life and adventure was nothing short of incredible. We met many wonderful people in our time in Paraburdoo, there wasn’t a weekend were a backyard party didn’t happen, there were gutter parties, roof parties (I know, weird!) any type of party.

Pool parties were the best though. Our backyard upright pool was always a source of endless fun for our friends and our parents friends. you name it we had it! Our backyard was often transformed into a sea of 20 somethings of the tragic but immensely fun 80s. There was crimped hair, bright make up, singlet tops and thongs, endless dancing, singing, laughing and plenty of beer. Often we’d wake to a sea of empty bottles of booze and people camped out in our back yard or lounge room.

My bmx bike was my best friend. It took me all around Paraburdoo on mini adventures with my school friends or kids that lived in my street. I learnt how to make mud pies, my neighbours had chickens, I had a black cat who was the town tart (many litters of kittens that populated the town) and the value of the local swimming pool (champion swimmer at 6 years) was soon learnt as was the theory that certain patterns in the dirt meant that a snake had paid us a visit.

The immense heat meant that sometimes school was cancelled. Doors were never locked, there simply was no crime and sometimes things just didn’t work. Like air conditioners breaking down, or home phones not working. We only got the abc on tv so our viewing pleasure was very limited, and you had to rely on the school library for something to read. Needless to say there was a lot of just making shit up in my childhood.

In outback australia the night sky is absolutely stunning. In Paraburdoo you could witness such clarity and experience the vastness of the universe right from your backyard. The Milky Way, so vividly pretty and unobscured by light pollution, I even remember the famous Haley’s comet paying us a visit. Due to the immense heat of that part of Australia, many nights were spent outside star gazing and moon watching. I think this is where I developed my love of the night sky and Astro photography.

It would be remiss of me not to mention the wildlife in Paraburdoo. So here goes! Yeah there were the iconic Australian animals, the kangaroos, koalas, wombats and often loud symphonies of cockatoos. But the ones most overseas travellers are scared of, we had a plenty! Snakes, yes, and yes the deadly ones. I did watch dad kill more than a few (my hero). Spiders bigger than your hand, or those pesky little red back spiders that could do a lot of harm, those were the kind of spiders that could creep into your shoes if you left them outside or build a web under your bike seat. Always check your bike seat before you ride, no one wants a bite on the arse from a red back spider! Ouch. Cockroaches, omg! Big and black and let me tell you the sound of those little bastards being slammed by a thong is all kinds of gross! Crunch! And goannas! I remember a huge black one walking me home from school one day, he’d have had to have been at least 2 metres long. Seriously though, do not let all of that deter you from exploring this part of Australia. Most of them WONT kill you contrary to common belief.

On weekends, if the parentals were not partying we would go out camping at waterholes, dry creek beds, mountain areas and the like. Right out bush. Our we’d take longer time away from Paraburdoo and head to the coast to Exmouth or Onslow where the beaches are so beautiful, the water crystal clear and the sand so white sunglasses were a must.

Paraburdoo being such a small town with not many facilities and shops, we’d often drive and hour away to a town called Tom Price to hit up the Chinese restaurant where we’d either eat in or take away… yep, an hours drive home with that glorious smell playing havoc on your hungry stomach was pure torture. There’s nothing ‘local’ about an hours drive for take away food! Dad tells me that they used to gather a group of families together and order KFC to be flow in all the way from Perth. Now that is just crazy! We’d also have to drive to bigger towns for any kind of shopping that wasn’t food related, or head down to Perth (you remember how far away that was 1500kms) to buy things like clothing, furniture and even cars. We did buy a car in Perth once. Dad ordered it over the phone and a few weeks later it arrived. Our new car, unseen by us upon purchase.

We did the drive home to Ballarat once for a holiday, taking 6 weeks off work and school taking in the western Australian coast line, dropping into my Aunty’s farm in a small south Australian town called Lameroo before finally making it home to Ballarat. Unaccustomed to the coldness of southern Australia it came as a complete culture shock to us kids, hey we were too used to dry hot days, endless sunshine and outback adventures. Not many people I know got to experience that kind of life.

Which brings me to the purpose of this post. I can’t think of any one of my friends or family, except of course my brother, that had a childhood like mine. It was completely innocent and a lot of fun. Being brought up in a remote outback Australian community was honestly the best start in life I think we could have had. I believe that my early years really opened up my eyes to a life of adventure and not confirming to the ordinary when it comes to a life of exploration. It was a simple life in Paraburdoo but a diverse one where we mixed with kids from all areas of the country, some were born there, some were from other parts of the country, others were from indigenous communities from around the area. It was a life where we really had to band together as a family to make it, and to deal with life without some of the comforts others had in the rest of the country, but it was our normal and we loved it.

I’ve done a fair bit of travel since those formative days of my childhood and I honestly think that having that experience at such a young age endeared me to a life of experiences and expanding my world. Although my parents haven’t travelled overseas as extensively as I have, they are true pioneers of their generation and without them taking a chance on that life away from the comforts of home and the people that they loved I doubt that I’d have such a passion for travel as I do. Thanks Mum and Dad x